Several large monumental pillar stones stand at a short distance from the church in an easterly direction, but they bear no inscription. The ancient recluses or anchorites appear to have selected the wildest and most dreary spots as their abode. This rock contains about threequarters of an acre of surface, and access to it can only be effected by a skilful climber, and after a long continuance of calm weather.

From Kilkee an excursion may be made to Loophead-sixteen miles. The legend that gave name to Loophead is still well remembered by the people. "Cuchullin (Cuhullin), the chief of the Red Branch Knights of Ulster, endeavouring once to escape from a woman by whom he was pursued, made his way southwards to the extremity of the County of Clare, where he unhappily found himself in a cul-de-sac, with the furious termagant just behind him. There is a little rock called Bullan-na-leime (leap rock), rising over the waves, about twentyfive feet beyond the cane on which the chief alighted with a great bound from the mai and the woman, nothing daunted by the raging chasm, sprang er him; when, exerting all his strength, he leaped back again to the mainland -a much more difficult feat than the first-and his pursuer, attempting to follow him, fell short into the sea.

The

"Hence the cape was called Leim-Chonchuilliun, Cuchullin's Leap; which is the name always used by ancient Irish writers-as for instance by the Four Masters" (Joyce). Here is the mouth of the Shannon, which is, from this point to Kerryhead, eleven miles in breadth. From the balcony round the lantern of the lighthouse an extensive view is obtained of M'Gillicuddy's Reeks to the south and the Connemara Mountains to the north, with the islands standing far out to sea. cliffs here partake of the remarkable formation of the other parts of this coast. Nearly three miles further on, at Ross's Bay, are two remarkable natural bridges, crossing a narrow inlet, up which the sea rushes with great violence; they are beautifully formed of strata of clay slate and rock; the under side is quite smooth, as if plastered; they are covered on the top with earth and poor grass. A public car runs from Kilkee to

Kilrush,

a small town, with an excellent harbour, the only seaport in the County Clare.

The distance is nine miles.

The most remarkable place in the vicinity of Kilrush is the Island of Scattery, which lies about one mile of the shore. On this island St. Senan founded a monastery. It is said that there were here originally

St. Senan and Scattery Islanů.

319

seven churches, of which now only the remains of two are to be seen in tolerable preservation; these are the cathedral, some portions of which are of high antiquity, others of a first pointed style; and a small edifice, which is believed to have been an oratory, used especially by St. Senan. Into this building it is even now considered highly improper for any woman to enter. Some years ago an enterprising female, with the curiosity of her sex, would insist on intruding within the forbidden walls; but, lo! the result of her temerity, she was carried out, having broken her leg while stepping over the rough floor of the interior. The round tower is still perfect, retaining even its original cap of stone. It is remarkable as the only building of its class in Ireland having its doorway on a level with the ground. The objection of St. Senan to female society has been immortalized by Moore in one of his melodies. It appears that he, like St. Kevin of Glendalough, was greatly persecuted by the attentions leave him alone, and who, contrary to all insist on violating the sanctuary on Scattery

a lady who would not des of propriety, would Island; he did not drown

her, however, but simply sent her about her business, in the manner thus related by the poet :

"Oh haste and leave this sacred isle,
Unholy barque, e're morning's smile;
For on thy deck, though dark it be,
A female form I see;

And I have sworn, this sainted sod
Shall ne'er by woman's feet be trod.
Oh! father, send not hence my barque,
Through wintry winds and billows dark;
I come with humble heart to share
Thy morning and thy evening prayer;
Nor mine the feet, oh, holy saint!
The brightness of thy sod to taint.

The lady's prayer Senanus spurned;

The wind blew fresh, and the barque returned¬

But legends whisper, had the maid

Till morning's light delayed,

And given the saint one rosy smile,

She ne'er had left that holy isle.

From Kilrush the tourist can proceed to Limerick by the steamer which plies between these places; or he may leave the steamer at Foynes, and continue his journey by train to Killarney.

For description of steam route to Limerick see Excursions from, Limerick, section 4.

DUBLIN TO CORK

BY THE GREAT SOUTHERN AND WESTERN RAILWAY.

LEAVING the Dublin terminus, which is situated close to the Kings bridge, at the extreme end of the city, the tourist passes on his right

the Phoenix Park, with its varied attractions of upland scene and wooded dell, and on his left

The Royal Hospital,

built in 1679, for the maintenance of old and wounded soldiers. A little farther on is

Inchicore,

the locomotive works of the Company, where may be seen trim terraces

of houses built for the use of the employées in the works. The first station is

Clondalkin,

near which occurs a fine round tower in a state of great preservation. This building, which is surmounted by a conical cap, is eighty-four feet in height, having a singular projecting base nearly thirteen feet

CLONDALKIN ROUND TOWER, CO. DUBLIN.

high, composed chiefly of solid masonry. The tower can be ascended on the inside, by a series of ladders. Passing

Lucan and Hazelhatch,

the wood-covered Hill of Lyons is seen standing out from the range of the Dublin Mountains, which continue to be visible all the way to Kildare, and form a charming background to the landscape; at its foot is Lyons, the beautiful residence of Lord Cloncurry. A rath in this