The Cross of Drumcliffe. 255 a vestige remains, its site being occupied by a modern building, near which, on the road-side, stands one of the famous Round Towers of Ireland, the only one, by-the-bye, at present remaining in the County Sligo. This tower is at present but forty feet in height, a good deal of its upper portion having, not many years ago, been utilized for building purposes. The chief object of interest at Drumcliffe is a magnificent cross standing about midway between the site of the ancient church and the mutilated round tower. It measures thirteen feet in height, and three feet eight inches in width at the cross arms, and it is nearly a foot in thickness, the shaft slightly tapering. This beautiful work of Celtic art, though not nearly so large as several other examples of its class, exhibits upon all its surfaces a wealth of carving illustrative of scripture history or of passages in the history of the locality. Several of its panels contain interlacing patterns of most curious and intricate design, each of which would form a study in itself. From the style of its ornamentation this cross must be judged to be as old at least as the ninth century. At an angle of the road nearly facing the round tower stands a second monument, which has all the appearance of a gigantic pillar-stone set in a base. It may happily have been intended to decorate this stone with interlaced patterns or figures, and to have added a cross to its upper portion. Altogether it has quite an unfinished look. Tradition states that at Drumcliffe a number of other beautiful stone crosses formerly existed, and we know that the place at an early period was sometimes designated Druim-cliabh-na-g-cros, Drumcliffe of the crosses. From about Drumcliffe a very magnificent view of the Benbulben range presents itself, and the tourist's interest in the scene continues during his now comparatively short drive to Sligo. The Town and Port of Sligo. Sligo is stated to be the most rising and important town in Connaught. Its public buildings are the County Court House, the County Gaol, the Town Hall, the Infirmary, the Custom House, the Lunatic Asylum, Barracks, &c. The town is well supplied with places of religious worship; of these, the Roman Catholic Cathedral, as an architectural work, is immeasurably the grandest. From the quays, which are very extensive and commodious, well-appointed steamers ply to Westport, Glasgow, and Liverpool. A very considerable export trade in butter, eggs, fowl, and cattle is here carried on; the imports 1 being chiefly corn, timber, coal, and iron. Altogether, especially on a market day, the town presents a busy scene. The place in ancient times was strongly fortified, but nothing remains of its castle or walls; and yet, on account of its magnificent Abbey ruins, and its proximity to the most extensive collection of pre-historic remains to be found in the British Islands, Sligo is still a place of high interest to the antiquary. Sligo Abbey, or Monastery, was originally erected by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice of Ireland, in 1252 or 1253; and by him dedicated to the Cross, and, together with land for a garden and cemetery, presented to the Dominicans. The remaining ruins evince the former grandeur of the establishment. Three sides of the eloister quadrangle, formed of beautifully designed arches, remain nearly Ruins of Sligo Abbey. 257 entire, and show the perfection with which Irish architects, during a portion of the so-called barbarous middle ages, practised their art. A lofty quadrangular tower, supported on a richly-groined arch, rises at the junction of nave and chancel. The eastern window of the latter, which is here figured, as indeed the whole of this portion of the Church, clearly belongs to the thirteenth century, and is portion of the structure originally erected by Maurice Fitzgerald. Situate in the southern wall may be seen a stately monument bearing the date 1616. This was erected to the memory of O'Conor Sligo and his family. We read that in 1415 this monastery was consumed by an accidental fire. It was shortly afterwards restored, and in a great measure rebuilt. Much of the remaining work is evidently of fifteenth century character. On the 22nd of August, 1642, the Abbey, by order of Sir Frederick Hamilton, was again burnt, since which period until lately its walls do not appear to have been used otherwise than as a quarry, from which building materials might be obtained. It is now, to many, the most attractive feature in Sligo. Some few years ago an attempt was made to conserve what of the structure remained. On that occasion the parapets of the tower were disfigured by the introduction of some new work, which is unfortunately allowed to remain. There are many beautiful drives in the vicinity of Sligo. Tourists should, by all means, visit Glencar, a most romantic spot, already R referred to as exhibiting a cascade, which at times looks as if the water flowed upwards. The most noteworthy scenery in the neighbourhood, however, is that which the exquisite shores and islands of Lough Gill or Gilly so lavishly present. "The chief object of attraction in the neighbourhood of Sligo," writes Mr. Inglis, "is Lough Gilly; a lake which is not sufficiently known to enjoy the reputation it deserves. I hired a boat at Sligo, and ascended the river through a succession of beautiful scenery to the demesne of Hazelwood, the property of Mr. Wynne. This is a very lovely spot; the views of the lake from a hundred points are enchanting; and in the disposition of lawn, wood, and shrubbery taste and art have taken ample advantage of the gifts of nature. Finer evergreens I never saw in the most southern countries. The laurels and bays-grown into great trees-rivalled, if they did not surpass, those of Woodstock or Curraghmore; and here I again found the arbutus, not, indeed, quite equal in its perfections to the arbutus of Killarney, but not greatly its inferior, and giving to the scenery all the advantage of colouring which is the boast of Killarney. The timber too, in this domain, is equal to almost any I have seen, and I have often found myself pausing before some magnificent ash, oak, elm, or lime, throwing its deep shade across the green amphitheatre, which it seems to have made for itself. But I must not forget Loch Gilly, which indeed it would be difficult to do. The domain of Hazelwood extends over that part of the banks of the river where it widens into a lake, and forms the first promontory. I embarked on the lake on the other side. Lough Gilly is about eight miles long, and from one to two broad, and in the character of beauty, well bears a comparison with any lake in Ireland. Its scenery is not stupendous-scarcely even anywhere bold; but it is beautiful exceedingly.' Its boundaries are not mountains, but hills of sufficient elevation to form a bold and striking outline. The hill-sides, which in some places rise abruptly from the water, and which, in others, slope more gently, are covered to a considerable elevation with wood, and the lake is adorned with twenty-three islands, almost every one of them finely wooded. Here too, as well as on Hazelwood domain, I found that the arbutus is not confined to Killarney. The extent of Loch Gilly is highly favourable to its beauty. The eye embraces at once its whole length and breadth; the whole circumference of its shores; all their varieties and contrasts at once; all its islands. One charm is not lost in the contemplation of another, as in a greater lake; the whole is seen at once and enjoyed. I remained many hours on Lough Gilly, rowing here and there, or not moving at all; landing Legend of Lough Gill. 259 on its islands, two of which-Church Island and Cottage Island-are full of beauty; putting ashore in little coves and inlets, and visiting a holy well two or three hundred yards from the banks, where I saw eleven devotees, four of whom went from station to station on their knees." Lough Gill, according to a legend, has been so called after a hapless lady of the same name who met her fate upon its banks. She is said sometimes to appear, skimming the surface of the water, seated in a swift rolling chariot. Gill is emphatically the Shee, or Fairy Queen of the place. It is believed by many of the natives that where the waters of the lough now spread was formerly a rich plain, in the centre of which stood a noble city. Some of the lake boatmen declare that on a particularly bright, still day its towers and houses may yet be distinctly traced to the eye. One fellow goes so far as to declare that he had seen smoke ascending from some of its chimneys. Nobody now living, however, has been able to reach that enchanted spot, or at least to go there, and return. But an account, and evidently an accurate and circumstantial one, of a visit paid to the fairy habitat is still extant; and is given in words something like the following: Very many years ago an old woman yclept Biddy (tradition has failed to record her patronymic), who lived on the borders of the lake, had occasion at midnight, one 23rd of June (bonfire night) to draw water from the lake, close to her cabin door. Pail in hand she sallied out, pausing for a moment to admire the beautiful effect of the moonlight on the bosom of the lake. "No mist obscures, nor cloud, nor speck, nor stain In full orbed glory, yonder moon divine Rolls through the dark blue depths." Biddy approached the margin of the water. To her great astonishment, however, the cool, shining mirror seemed ever to recede before her as she stooped to fill her vessel. Astonished at the phenomenon, she walked on and on through a beautiful country which she had never before seen. Verdant pastures stretched on either side of a broad road shaded by lofty spreading trees. Soon she approached a fine town, whose open casements and street lamps twinkled and glittered in the distance like a multitude of twin stars. The town seemed of great extent, but the main street, into which our wanderer penetrated, exceeded in beauty and magnificence any idea she had previously, in her rustic simplicity, formed of splendid cities. A curious contrast to the penury and wretchedness which she had just quitted was presented *Lieut.-Col. Woodmartin's "History of Sligo." |