the "Garrison cave," has not as yet been thoroughly explored, so great is its length and the difficulties of the way. The "Lettered cave," so called from carvings, symbols, or inscriptions of an early date, with which its sides are scored, is very easy of access, even to ladies. This curious cavern was, no doubt, in remote ages, used as a place of habitation.

A second inscribed rocky retreat, called "Gillie's Hole," may be seen in the northern face of the cliff. About ninety years ago it was used as a habitation by a pair of lovers who on account of their imprudent marriage had been discarded by their former friends and left destitute.

A day can be well spent in this wild, but most beautiful and romantic place, but for those whose time is limited it will be advisable to arrive at an early hour of the day, so that ere returning to Enniskillen a visit might be made to Carrick Lake, three miles beyond Derrygonnelly. This most lovely place can only be described as a Killarney in miniature. It is a model place for a picnic, and not too far from Enniskillen to render a trip to it fatiguing even to persons not over robust. Here purple heath, wild declivities, grey rocks, magnificent woods, a haunted looking islet, situate in a lake, which also seems haunted (so mysterious is its aspect of quiet beauty and tranquillity, amongst the surrounding time and storm-worn cliffs), form a very essence of the romantic and beautiful. The tourist should now return to his quarters in Enniskillen, and after such a day's journeying and sight-seeing—if he— home reader-do not rest happily, that you and I may.

For the tourist wishing to proceed to Belfast from Enniskillen there are two routes, viz., via Omagh, Dungannon, and Portadown, and via Clones, Armagh, and Portadown.

As there is nothing in either of particular interest to arrest the traveller's attention, except at Clones and Armagh, we subjoin a short account of each place.

Clones.

The ancient town or rather city of Clones now presents but few objects of interest to the antiquary. War and fire, and the vandalism of centuries, have all but obliterated the landmarks of history, which, as we know, formerly rendered the city of St. Tighernarch one of the most interesting spots in Ireland. Of the church and monastery founded here in the sixth century no vestige remains, but on a site anciently appertaining to the monastic enclosure one of those wonderful evidences of the artistic taste of our early cross builders may still be seen.

This cross, 15 feet in height, stands in the "Diamond" or market

Antiquities of Clones.

241.

place, upon a quadrangular platform of recent date, and may be described as being composed of three portions, base, shaft, and head. It is divided on each face into three panels, those of the front and back being carved with illustrations of Scripture history.

Amongst the designs may be recognised our first parents standing beneath the fatal tree, round the trunk of which the serpent is twining, the expulsion, and the sacrifice of Isaac. The other figure and sculpture of the shaft have become so worn as to be unintelligible. The sides are ornamented with beautiful specimens of interlacing tracery, and enriched bosses, all much weather-worn. The cross-head (four feet in height) displays the usual figure of our Saviour on the tree, together with some modern carvings quite out of character. The material is red sandstone.

The Round Tower

Is one of the earliest structures of its class remaining in Ireland. The doorway and other opes are, when perfect, covered with horizontal lintels, and in no part of the edifice does any indication of an arch appear. The present floor is raised three feet above the adjoining cemetery; here the diameter of the tower on the interior is eight feet nine inches. On a level with the doorway-sill stood the first floor, which was supported by an offset varying from two to four inches in depth. The second floor, which was lighted by a small quadrangular opening, rested upon joists, for the reception of which five holes are distinctly visible in the wall. The upper floors were similarly sustained, and each, except the topmost, was lighted by a single quadrangular window. The doorway, which is placed some eight feet above the level of the projecting base course, measures five feet four and a half inches in height, by one foot eight and a quarter inches at the top, and one foot eleven inches at the bottom. This tower, like all others of its class, terminated in a conical stone roof.

The Abbey.

This appears to have formed the nave of a highly finished church dating from the close of the eleventh century. The southern side wall, which remains the most perfect, presents on the exterior nine courses of beautifully cut and regularly laid ashlar masonry, the material being sandstone of a reddish colour and close grit. The interior is chiefly formed of limestone. Here is seen the only remaining window of the church.

This aperture, in its rounded head cut out of a single stone, square

sided, recessed moulding, and elaborately dressed masonry, closely resembles one or two of the windows in the smaller tower of Clonmacnoise. A striking and original feature of this interesting ruin is a carving which appears upon its northern wall. In it we have a perfect representation of our ancient Irish crosses, such as those of Kells, Monasterboice, &c., cut in relief upon a stone measuring one foot in height, by one foot two and a half inches in breadth. Nothing like this cross, in its position at least, has been observed in connection with any other church in Ireland.

The Monument.

Situated upon a line between the tower and the abbey, and directly facing the door of the former, is a monument in some respects unlike anything noticed elsewhere in Ireland. It is formed of a single block of hard red sandstone, five feet ten inches in length by three feet in height, which has been fashioned into the form of an early Irish church. The interior is artificially hollowed so that the work forms a shrine in form exactly like that of St. Ethelreda, in Ely Cathedral. Its position is east and west, like that of a church. Upon its eastern gable is carved the upper portion of a human figure, the head of which is surmounted by a triangular head-covering, probably a mitre. Upon the southern side just below the eve are two grotesque heads of animals graven bracket fashion, and an unintelligible piece of sculpture. The northern and western sides are plain.

Anything like ancient tradition is completely silent regarding this grave and its shrine. The ground over which it stands is considered especially holy, and much contention has existed for the site as a burial place.

The Fort

Stands on the outskirts of the town, a little to the north-west of the less ancient structures. This earthwork which may well be described as stupendous, consists of a central mound, extremely high and steep, in the form of a truncated cone, the surface of which is quite flat, and amply sufficient for the accommodation of a right royal house. Surrounding the central dun or les are three concentric raths, also extremely steep. Dr. Joyce suggests that this fort was raised by a pagan chief named Eos, and that the name Clones, anciently written CluainEois (Cloonoce), should be translated "Eos's Meadow."

In the neighbourhood of Clones the industry of lace making is carried on to a great extent, the principal kinds being several varieties of Guipure and Crochet.

The Red Branch Knights of Ardmacha.

Monaghan.

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The train from Clones runs through the rich and well cultivated County of Monaghan, stopping at its chief town of the same name: a neat and very prosperous county town, with several good buildings, a handsome Court-house and Market-house, and two public schools. Here is being erected a magnificent Roman Catholic Cathedral. Lord Rossmore's demesne adjoins the town.

At Glasslough,

The railway passes close to the beautiful demesne of Sir John Leslie, Bart.

Armagh.

Ardmacha, or the Hill of Macha, now Armagh, was so called from Macha, wife of Nemedius, who is supposed to have been buried at Emania, or the Navan, a short distance from Armagh, more than a thousand years before the incarnation of our Lord; or more probably from Macha Mong Ruadh (of the golden hair), wife of Cimbaeth, who flourished over 300 years before the Christian era.

This old primatial city was, according to Fynes Moryson, "the seat of an archbishop, and the metropolitan city of the whole island;" but in the time of the great rebellion it was altogether "ruinated." In the annals of history we perhaps read of no other city having undergone such a succession of misfortunes as Armagh, the place having been burnt in 670, 687, 710, 718, 839, 914, 995, 1020, 1074, 1093, 1112, 1136, 1164, 1166, 1179, 1511, 1642; and plundered in 830, 850, 867, 893, 896, 919, 931, 941, 1080. On many occasions Armagh was consumed by lightning.

In olden times it was one of the most celebrated sites in Western Europe, having Emania with its Knights of the Red Branch, so famous in history, centuries before the birth of our Saviour; the "Dambliag Mor," or great stone church, built in its primitive form by St. Patrick himself; the great school with its seven thousand students; the cells; "Cemeterium Regum," or the King's Cemetery. It had also its rath, ecclesiastical towers, several crosses, and many ancient churches. In more modern times we have the Royal, or Free School, in Abbey-street, removed to its present position in 1773 by Primate Robinson; the Library, built in 1771; Observatory, in 1793; Tontine, in 1790, &c.

St. Patrick's Cathedral is the principal ecclesiastical building in Armagh, and the most striking object on entering the city. The ground occupied by this sacred edifice has been devoted to religious purposes for more than fourteen centuries, and there appears no reason to doubt that this church was founded and endowed with its primatial dignity and pre-eminence by St. Patrick.*

ARMAGH CATHEDRAL.

"The Damhliag Mor, or Great Stone Church," writes Dean Reeves, probably occupied part of the site of the present Cathedral. It bears the name here given to it in the Annals of the year 839; while at 890 and 907 it is mentioned under the generic title of Ecclais, or Church. This building was probably a plain oblong, with the door at the west, and principal window in the east. Distinguished individuals were occasionally buried in it, as we find that in 1010 a chief was interred before the altar. In 995 it was burned, and the roof remained, as annalists observe, for 130 years in a ruined condition until 1125, when Celsus new roofed it and covered it with shingles. This build