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Liffey another Poula Phooka; in Wicklow is the "Devil's Glen;" in Connemara a glorious heath-clad mountain bears a most singular name, the Devil's Mother; and at Killarney may be seen a loch or tarn rejoicing, if water can rejoice, in the style and title of the "Devil's Punch Bowl!" but that now contains only water-poor Devil!

But Irish scenery is not always of that sternly sublime class in which admirers of what may be styled the Ossianic school of poetry chiefly delight. Landscapes, such as Wordsworth would glory in, unsurpassed in grace and beauty, are abundantly sprinkled throughout the island; and by many a noble stream are deeply piled woods of Nature's own planting, or castled crags clothed in holly, pine, oak, beech, or rowan trees, and many others, which, in the variety of their colours, add an additional charm to the picture mirrored beneath in the river's course, where :

"Slow, and in soft murmurs, Nature bade it flow."

Having so far in this Introduction touched upon the history, antiquities, and natural scenery of Ireland, it is only proper, on the part of a Guide, to recollect that some of his readers, especially strangers from a distance, might wish, further, to be told somewhat, at least, concerning the status, trade, and commercial peculiarities of the leading cities and towns which occur upon our proposed journeys. Enquiry of this class shall be duly met with and honoured; and, no doubt, the reader, especially in Northern districts, will find much matter of interest; for though, strictly speaking, Ireland is essentially a food-producing country-" the teeming mother of flocks and herds"-yet, nevertheless, she has her industrial and manufacturing centres and exports, which are well esteemed and received over all parts of the world.

With a few necessary remarks I shall have accomplished the first, and generally considered the most difficult, part of a Guidethe Introduction. Let it be widely known that even amongst the most fastidious travellers, for many years past, there has been but one opinion of the capabilities of our hotels to meet all the requirements of ordinary, or even extraordinary, visitors.

The civility alike of the proprietors and of their assistants is

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proverbial, and the charges, as a rule, are wonderfully moderate. There is probably no country in Europe where the Tourist, even the proverbial "unprotected female," can travel more securely than in Ireland.

It has been observed of the reign of the late Charles Bianconi, who for more than fifty years was the chief, it might be said only, carrier of Tourists in Ireland, that during that long period, though his cars often passed through highly disturbed districts, not even a single stoppage of one of them for an illega purpose, to say nothing of outrage, was attempted.

Owing to the vigilance of the county surveyors, and to the abundance, on every hand, of excellent material for their repairs, our roads are second to none, even in the most favoured parts of England. Car hire is cheap, the drivers are civil and intelligent, and where railway accommodation is not to be had, the old "Irish jaunting car" will well supply its want. The cyclist will have his route like the rest; nor will the gentleman who wishes to paddle his own canoe be forgotten.

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Atkinson's

BLACK COLOURED

SILK POPLIN

"THE BEST OBTAINABLE."-Le FOLLET. UNEQUALLED FOR RICH APPEARANCE.

SOFTNESS OF TEXTURE.

AND GRACEFUL DRAPING.

LARGE VARIETY IN BLACK, and ALL THE NEWEST SHADES. Manufacturers for Select Retail Trade:

R. ATKINSON & CO.,

31 COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN.

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THE BOYS' CLOTHING EMPORIUM,

66 GRAFTON STREET.

It is worth your while. Those that have (town and country) are greatly pleased. No "Slop" Goods kept. Every Garment Guaranteed. In the Tailoring Department you can select your own Tweed from a variety of Patterns, and have a Suit made to order at the price of ready-made clothing. Cut, style, and Finish Guaranteed. Your special attention is directed to some odd lots, secured for the present season, at less than half-price.

Bor's SCOTCH TWEED VEST, 1/- BOYS' HEAVY NAP REEFERS, 2/11. SAILOR SUITS, 3/3. SCHOOL SUITS, 4/3. YOUTHS' SUITS, 12/6. OVERCOATS, 6/6. Strong, stout odd SERGE KNICKERS, lined, 1/6.

Boys' Velvet Suits, Girls' Reefer Jackets & Youths' Overcoats are Specialities. TERMS:-STRICTLY CASH.

Please Note Address-66 GRAFTON STREET. WILLIAM LEYBURNE MURPHY.

DUBLIN.

B

AILE-ATHA-CLIATH is the name, in Irish, of the metropolis of Ireland. It is to be translated the "Town or Place of the Hurdle Ford." "The present name of Dublin," writes Dr. Joyce, “is written in the Annals, Duibh-linn, which, in the ancient Latin Life of St. Kevin, is translated nigra therma, i.e., black pool. It was originally the name of that part of the Liffey on which the city is built, and is sufficiently descriptive at the present day."

Ptolemy, the Greek geographer, who flourished in the beginning of the second century, A.D., notices Dublin under the name Eblana, and describes the place as a magnificent city. From the second century down to the fifth, little, if anything, is known of Dublin. We then hear of it in connection with a mission of St. Patrick, but it does not at that time appear to have been anything like what might have been expected from the mention made by Ptolemy.

For several centuries Dublin was a stronghold of Northmen, Ostmen, Easterlings, or Danes, in Ireland, whose power was crushed by King Brian in A.D. 1014, as already stated in this Guide. After that decisive conflict the non-combatant foreigners were allowed to remain in the city, paying tribute, no doubt, to the Irish kings; and it was from them, together with some warlike auxiliaries whom they had imported, that, in the twelfth century, Dublin was wrested by Norman invaders, assisted by Irish traitors. From that period to the present the city has remained the chief stronghold of English power in Ireland. Of its public buildings, and other "sights," we shall presently treat in their proper order.

Tourists wishing to see Ireland will usually select Dublin as their first stopping place in that country. A very popular route from England is via Holyhead and Kingstown, by the sister mail steamers Ulster, Leinster, Munster, Connaught, and Ireland. The very excellent express boats belonging to the London and North-Western Railway Company, which daily ply between Holyhead and Dublin, are also great favourites, and are generally used by such travellers as prefer being landed directly in Dublin, and by this means avoid the railway trip of twenty minutes or so between Kingstown and the metropolis.

On a fine spring or summer morning, the scene which the coast of Ireland, for a distance of many miles, north and south of Dublin, presents is one which, once experienced, is not likely soon to fade on the memory. It may be presumed that the voyage of three hours, or little more, has not, even to the delicate, proved altogether unpleasant. It is generally enjoyed-for in summer time, and, indeed, as a rule, through the tourist season, the silver streak is in very good behaviour, often as sinooth as an inland loch-by many, who, for the nonce, would like to witness the effects of a bit of a 66 sea change." That bluff, black headland to the east and north is the fainous Hill of Howth, not unknown to the Greek Ptolemy, before whose time, however, our authentic annals relate that Criffan, monarch of Ireland, in the first century, had there built his fortress, or dun. Here he died in A.D. 9, as the Annals of the Four Masters state, "after returning from the famous expedition to Gaul and Britain on which he had gone, bringing back with him wonderful jewels, amongst which were a golden chariot and a golden chess-board (inlaid with a hundred transparent gems), and a beautiful cloak embroidered with gold." He had also weapons, defensive and offensive, of wondrous power and value; grey-hounds with a silver chain between them, which chain was worth three hundred cumhals; with many other precious articles.

It is a pity that Criffan has not been recorded as having died in fight; he was evidently in his day a very enterprising sea-king-a Celtic Lambro-and well worthy of such honours as are claimed by many a Scandinavian. But he was a mere Irish Gael, and so is not generally ncluded in the happy circle of heroes whom modern writers of the history of the British Islands delight to honour.

Far to the north, robed in colours of the clouds, extend the Carlingford Hills, and farther still may be seen the sublime range of the Mourne Mountains, in the County of Down. That topmost peak is Slieve Donard, long but erroneously considered the highest mountain in Ireland. Right ahead is the beautiful Bay of Dublin, fringed with woods and plantations, through and amongst which may be discerned, rising as it were terrace upon terrace, the hamlets and villas, which, stretching from the city as far as Bray, seem part and parcel of the Irish metropolis. This usually bright and attractive panorama is backed by a picturesque range of hills generally styled the Dublin Mountains. Kingstown Harbour in front, shining in the morning sunlight, is a feature which would add a charm to any marine view. Above it, a little to the left, rise the hills of Dalkey and Killiney-the latter in the season a mass of golden furze chequered here and there by silver-like masses of the beautiful granite which is almost peculiar to this locality, and of

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