ecclesiastical architecture, so intimately associated with the name of one of the most illustrious fathers of the Irish Church, stood roofed and perfect as it had ever been, and that now we can do little more than trace its dimensions on the ground! The Round Tower. The tower, although now in a perfect state, has been restored within a recent period, as will be adverted to further on; but this applies only to the upper part or conical cap, and so well has the restoration been effected that it looks now as it did many centuries ago. Standing high on the northern bank of the island, it adds considerably to the attractive scenery of wood and water by which it is on all sides encompassed. The building may be looked upon as the model round tower of Ireland, and appears with little change since left by its builders, and looking as it did long, long ages ago, a cotemporary and silent witness of some of the most ancient as well as the more modern events recorded in Irish annals. Its total height is eighty-four feet ten inches, and its circumference at base is forty-nine feet. The peculiarity of this tower is the rich style of ornamentation of its carved cornice and quaint dressings. Surmounting three of its topmost apertures are curious carved human heads, displaying beards most elaborately interlaced in a style of art often developed in some of our most ancient manuscripts. Cver the northern aperture is a head with a beardless face, evidently intended to represent a feinale; but of whom these portraits were intended to be mementos there is no record. Captain Stothard of the Royal Engineers made drawings of all these sculptures; they are exceedingly curious, and possess much interest both to the antiquary and artist, the elaborate work upon the string courses more particularly so. Many years ago the seed of an elder, wafted hither by the wind, or more probably deposited by a bird, struck root into the masonry at the point of the shaft, just under the cone, until at length it became a tree; inserting its fibres so gradually, yet successfully, into the joints, by degrees it loosened and displaced the bond of the ashlar work and part of the cone. For several years destruction to the upper part of the tower seemed imminent, and in 1834 it actually occurred. The tree, which in the meantime had grown to a considerable size, was blown down during a storm, and its roots carried with them a considerable portion of the upper part of the tower, causing a breach on the south-western The Great Church, Devenish Island. 231 side in a diagonal line, which left, only two-thirds of the conical cap standing. In Mr. and Mrs. Hall's Ireland we find the following in reference to this: "Fortunately, the Hon. and Rev. J. C. Maude, the Rector of the Parish of Enniskillen, was not an indifferent looker on. He resolved upon the preservation of this interesting relic of antiquity, and at once wrote circulars to the Bishop of the Diocese, whose property the island then was, and to all the leading gentry of the country, 'apologising for interfering in such a matter, being only, as it were, a casual resident,' but stating he had done so from the fear that, while no exertion was made, the dilapidation would proceed to an extent that would preclude all hope of restoring the building." This call upon the part of the rev. gentleman was attended with success, and even exceeded his most sanguine anticipations. He received encouragement from people of every class and every variety of opinion; subscriptions poured in until at length he was enabled to advertise for contractors. Mr. Rexton, a local builder, was the successful one, and he executed the restoration, utilising all the old stone and preserving the carvings almost intact, and, curious to remark, without the aid of ordinary scaffolding. Out of the four opens at the top he contrived to fix strong pieces of timber, projecting at both ends, upon which he formed a scaffold all round, and which was securely approached by ladders, and thus the work was completed in a faultless manner. To the Rev. Mr. Maude, Ireland is indebted for the preservation from ruin, with which this relic of bygone ages was threatened, for at that time authorised care of national memorials was unknown, and in several instances remains of edifices, the most sacred, were resorted to as quarries for the construction of the meanest hovel. To the archæologist and to all who admire scenes and shrines connected with the religion of the ancient Irish this rescue from destruction of Devenish round tower becomes invaluable. Had it been permitted to continue, it is possible this tower might now be of the past. The Tempal Mor, or Great Church. Within a short distance of the tower are the ruins of what was the Daimliag, or principal stone church. It consisted of a nave and chancel with a transept to the south, and a suite of domestic buildings to the north-an arrangement somewhat unusual. Its windows and doorways are deeply embayed and arched in the Norman style of architecture. The remains of several other churches are to be seen on the other island, and the principal church is said to have been originally founded by St. Laserian, better known as St. Molaisse, who died here A.D. 563. St. Molaisse's Bed and Well. Whether the saint was interred in Devenish or not is a fact which remains to be decided; but a grave is shown not far from the great church as his. There is a stone sarcophagus, now broken into several pieces, which is popularly supposed to have a miraculous power of curing rheumatism and other complaints, if only the invalid can fit in it and turn three times round. The Priory or Abbey Church. This building, which was dedicated to St. Mary, retains many traces of former architectural splendour. Its chief feature is a quadrangular belfry tower, which rises from four arches of admirable design and workmanship. The capitals rest on tongue-shaped corbels almost peculiar to Ireland. A spiral stair leads to the first apartment of the tower; this is floored with stone, the floor containing three apertures for bell ropes. The graining of this floor is extremely rich and beautiful. Near the foot of the stairs, built into the wall of a small recess, may be seen the celebrated inscribed stone of Devenish. The legend, which is in raised capitals of the Lombardic type, reads : Matheus: O'Duhgagan: Altogether the remains of this dated building form a very pleasing study for the artist, as well as to the antiquary, or ecclesiological student. The Stone Cross, dc., dc. One very fine stone cross, as shown in accompanying illustration, together with numerous ornamental stones and other memorials of the dead, lie around in the neighbourhood of the ruins, all of which convey a lesson of the instability of earthly greatness. They are particularly in teresting as records of ancient workmanship; amongst which the supposed coffer of St. Molaisse, with its covering stone, wrought in six panels, lies in the lower cemetery-as well as effigies of Celtic princes long since forgotten. Devenish Island is one of the most beautiful which "gems the surface of Lough Erne," and contains about 70 or 80 acres of fertile land; but the buildings upon it, with the exception of the round tower, must have been in ruin early in the 17th century, as we find mentioned by Sr John Davis. The grave-yard has long been, and still is, regarded with pious veneration by the peasantry, as the remains of the dead are brought long distances, and then conveyed by boat to be interred amongst their own people. And it used to be a frequent occurrence to see a numerous throng embarking from l'ortora, following in the track of the principal mourners, while the chaunt of the death-wail echoed from afar, in wild modulations, over the waters of Lough Erne, its plaintive keen re-echoing in melancholy, slow, and solemn cadences from its shores, until it finally died away in the faintest whisper. It is greatly to be regretted that there is at present no regular steamboat service down the lower lake; yet much may be done and seen of this delightful district by the aid of row or sailing boats, which may be engaged by the day in Enniskillen. The islands are numerous, and all of them are richly wooded; everywhere the scenery is of a rich pastoral character, and on a fine day nothing in the way of an excursion by water can be more delightful than a trip on the broad bosom of the Erne. The principal seats which adjoin the shores of the lake are Rossfad, the residence of Colonel Richardson; Ely Lodge, belonging to the Marquis of Ely; Castle Archdale, fronting the noble bay of the same name; Killydeas, belonging to Colonel Irvine; and a few others. Most of these, however, are inaccessible by water to the ordinary tourist on account of their distance from Enniskillen and the want of steam communication. It is to be hoped that ere long Mr. Porter, who has already done so much to open the upper lake for the ordinary traveller, may feel his way to run one of his beautiful and commodious boats, if not daily, at least at fixed and stated times, between Enniskillen and CastleCaldwell. The project would, no doubt, be found to pay; at least it probably would do so in the summer season. Excursions from Enniskillen, by car or van. One of the most delightful trips which can be made from Enniskillen is by Florencecourt to the Marble Arch, returning by Belcoo. This can be easily accomplished in one day. The drive to Florencecourt, the beautiful seat of the Earl of Enniskillen, will occupy about one hour and a quarter; the distance is seven miles. The magnificent demesne is free to tourists on every week day. After viewing the grounds and enjoying the richness of the scenery by which they are environed, the tourist should drive to the almost matchless glen of the Marble Arch. This glen is not unlike that of the Dargle, in the County of Wicklow; but is even more romantic in character. The car might remain at the gate while the tourist walks to the "arch," which is but the mouth of a river which at some distance in the mountain above has disappeared, and after flowing through the rock by unknown channels, here returns to the light of day. Nothing can exceed the romantic beauty of this sequestered spot. On either side are towering cliffs of limestone, from the ledges of which spring various graceful trees. and shrubs-ash, oak, holly, &c., &c.; while the rock itself is coated with festoons of ivy such as only Ireland can produce, and ferns and creepers in exquisite variety. Below in a rocky bed, with huge boulders and deep pools at intervals, flows an ever beautiful |