Ninnidh may possibly have used this grassy "Knock" for grazing or agricultural purposes. The Erne river and lake was an easy, and in peaceful times a safe, highway for curach, cot, or even ship; and we know that in early days it was not uncommon for important monastic establishments, like that of Inismacsaint, to be endowed with lands and possessions lying at a considerable distance from the mother church. Be this as it may, we shall look in vain for the original name of a site which, from remains still to be seen upon its summit and slopes, there is every reason to believe must have been in pre-Christian times of no little account amongst the primitive tribes of the district. We find here, within a limited compass, three distinct modes of pagan sepulture, as (xemplified in cairns, megalithic monuments, and cave, all of which may be respectively considered fine illustrations of their class. The Carns, Which occupy a position upon or adjoining the summit, command a magnificent panorama extending over several counties, and nearly the whole of Upper Lough Erne and its almost countless islands. The very general selection during pagan times in Erin of commanding heights for sepulchral purposes may be accounted for in more ways than one. In the first place, during the period of cremation, cairn, stone circle, and cromleac building, it is probable that memorials of the dead, whom the Celts delighted to honour, could best be discerned from a distance, most of the plains and glens being then fassaghs or wildernesses of commingled loch, bog, and forest, or tangled underwood. In the second place, we read in our oldest manuscripts of warriors desiring their bodies, armed as for battle, to be buried in a position facing their enemies; and some very curious legends are yet extant, which more or less illustrate the old pagan idea that at times a dead and interred hero was, nevertheless, still more potent for victory than a host of spear-hurling, chariot-driving righs, well followed, and commanded by a leader whose sword " ne'er gave a second wound." 66 It is to be regretted that the names of the Knockninny Cairns have been lost, as with them, doubtlessly, have been lost the names of individuals who had made their mark in the history of the north of Erin. The cairns, three in number, though not very grand in their proper dimensions, nevertheless acquire some degree of dignity from the fact of their builders having raised them upon natural elevations, with which their contour generally more or less coincides. These piles, though lost to history, may not yet be barren to archæology, Р as in the outer shell of both, enclosed in cists, urns containing burned bones have been found. Unfortunately these have been lost, and we have no evidence as to the character of their contents. The Giants' Graves. The principal Knockninny "giant's grave," or dolmen, measures 49 feet in length, by six feet in average breadth. It extends as nearly as possible N.W. and S.E., and is composed of about twenty-five sandstone slabs. There is no trace of any covering. The interior is divided by stone partitions into three chambers, all of which were found to contain portions of human skeletons, largely mixed with bones of oxen, sheep, and other mammals. The bones, it should be observed, do not appear to have been subjected to the action of fire, although some small pieces of charcoal were found with them. They lay in utter disorder and at various depths. Canon Greenwell, who has devoted much attention to the exploration of barrows of the stone age, as found spreading over the wolds of Yorkshire, is of opinion that many of the remains which they held showed indications of cannibalism having been practised; and Dr. Murnum, another high authority on the subject of British barrows, sees "no difficulty in acceding to the conclusion of Mr. Greenwell." Are we to look on these Knockninny bones as the remains of a funeral feast ? The second" giant's grave," situate at a considerable distance from that just described, has been greatly ruined and need not be referred to at any length. Upon the eastern side is a very curious cave extending through a shoulder of the hill, and evidently formed by the action of water during the glacial period. Within were found a few years ago a number of human bones, a fine sepulchral urn, portions of rude earthen vessels, some worked flints, and a quantity of wood charcoal. Portions of at least seven skulls were then discovered. It would appear that this romantic cavern had been used as a dwelling place and as a mausoleum by some primitive tribe. No notice of Knockninny would be complete without some particular mention of the well already referred to. This spring has been enclosed within the walls of two covered structures, the inner one being probably of the era of some of our oldest churches. The outer building, which is comparatively modern, is in plan almost a square, measuring five feet seven inches by five feet thirteen inches. It stands about four feet in height. Another architectural relic, but one of a widely different class, consists of a small square tower house, or fortified residence of the 227 Elizabethan or perhaps a later period. It stands not far from the principal giant's grave. There would seem to be some misty tradition that this quaint pile was at one time the residence of the learned Bishop Bedell. Besides its antiquarian attractions, the tourist would derive much pleasure and advantage to his health in spending a few days at Knockninny. From its dry limestone soil the air is particularly pure and balmy. The botanist would find a rich field in the wild flowers which cloth the mountain in great variety, and the views from different points are exceedingly beautiful. There is a comfortable hotel on the borders of the lake, and very good fishing attached. Knockninny must be the limit of our first trip, as it cannot be guaranteed that the steamer will proceed further except by special agreement or on a stated excursion. On the return voyage the boat usually touches at the small pier close to Belleisle, to allow the passengers to land and walk through the demesne passing the house, where, by kind permission of Mr. Porter, they may have an opportunity of ascending to the tower to enjoy the view, and also of visiting the gardens and conservatories. Continuing their walk down the chief avenue, they arrive at a bridge, where they will find the steamer (having come round meanwhile) waiting to take them on board, and so return to Enniskillen. Crom Castle. About eight miles from Knockninny, further up the lake, is the ancient Castle of Crom, which, with the neighbouring lands, has long been in the possession of the Crichton family, the head of which at present is the Earl of Erne. 66 In referring to Crom, it is stated by the Rev. George Hill that the castle there built by Butler and Balfour, at very great expense, was gallantly held by the Earl's ancestors in 1688 against Lord Galmoy, until relieved by the Enniskilleners." Indeed, the picturesque and venerable ruin, now, as if in irony, clothed from turret to foundation stone in a uniform of "ivy green," successfully resisted two sieges. It was the frontier garrison of the northern Protestants during the trying times of the great revolution, and, though unprovided with artillery, was at all times enabled to hold its own. Close beside it stands a beautiful modern structure in the Tudor style of architecture, rising above plantations remarkable for their richness and beauty. This castle, which forms a striking contrast with its older sister, is the residence of the Earl of Erne. It is surrounded by most charming pleasure grounds, and in the front is a deep and sheltered bay, which forms an anchorage for his Lordship's yachts and steamers. In front of the old castle may be seen a very venerable yew tree, the branches of which cover an immense space of ground, and which is supposed to be at least five or six centuries old. Crom may be visited by car from Newtownbutler station, a distance of five miles, or by a pleasant row of about the same length from Belturbet. Visitors are admitted to the Castle and grounds on Tuesdays and Fridays. Second Excursion by Water. Cur second excursion by water will be to the famous island of Devenish, situate upon Lower Lough Erne, at a distance of about two miles and a half from the town. Passing through Portora stream we leave on the left hand the mouldering shell of a once important structure which was erected early in the seventeenth century by Sir William Cole, ancestor to the present Earl of Enniskillen. It was for some time the episcopal palace of the Bishopric of Clogher. The old pile seems to be gradually crumbling to the lake. "Earth buildeth upon the earth castles and towers; Upon the opposite side stands Derrygore House, the handsome seat of the Irwin family. And now we reach a broad expanse of water, the banks of which are fringed with forests of bulrushes, standing like a natural chevaux-de-frise, as it were, to defend the banks of blue forget-me-nots and other flowers of nature's planting which rise behind them. few minutes we are in sight of the holy isle. In al It is quite certain that this now lonely and almost uninhabited spot was for ages a chief seat of religion and literature. The late Rev. Dr. Todd, in writing on the status of the early Irish Church, as it existed for at least more than two centuries after the introduction of Christianity to Ireland, states :-"At home the Church was struggling against a lawless and savage paganism, in the midst of which neither life nor property was secure, and against a state of society in which a Christian life was impossible, except in a commonly exclusive Christian. Hence the monastic character impressed upon Irish Christianity from its first introduction into the island. A cœnobitic association (not always rigidly confined to one sex) seemed the natural and almost the only means of mutual protection Such societies were, The Island of Devenish. 229 therefore, formed in many places, and became centres of civilization, schools of learning, examples of Christian piety, charity, and devotion." Such an establishment was this of Devenish. With anything like a history of the place the reader shall not now be detained. It will be enough to say the founder was St. Lasirean, or Molaisse, who flourished in the early part of the sixth century, and died September 12th, A.D. 563. Of this truly venerable establishment, which was continued down to the time of Elizabeth, the following monuments remain : 1.-The House of St. Molaisse. 2.-The Round Tower. 3.-The Great Church. 4.-Aherla, or Bed; and Well. 5.-The Abbey. 6.-Crosses, &c., &c. The House of Molaisse is now a mere quadrangle of walls, rising to a height of about six or eight feet. It is a melancholy reflection that, in the memory of persons still living, this inestimable relic of Celtic |