In Enniskillen boats are easily procured, and at a very moderates charge, but in all cases it will be well to have a distinct understanding with the boatman as to the amount to be paid for his services. The proprietor of the hotel in which the tourist may be stopping, or one of his staff, will at all times be able to engage a boat and a man; or if necessary, more than one, to row.

Our first excursion will be upon the Upper Lake.

Excursion on the Upper Lake.

Soon after leaving the market quay, the place of embarkation, we turn round at the point of the "Main Barrack," and steaming under the arch of the west bridge, pass close to the old castle of the Maguires,

standing with its watch-towers as a fortress guarding this end of the town; we then glide along the southern shore, passing a flat and marshy inch, called the long meadow, and are fairly on our way through the waters of the Upper Lake. At half-a-mile's distance the sluggish and canal-like waters of the Sillees River join the lake on our right. This

The Legend of the Sillees.

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stream is supposed, according to a legend of great antiquity, to rest under the ban of St. Feber, a religieuse, the ruins of whose church are still visible near the marble arch. The legend is as follows :—“A pagan prince, instigated by the Druids, determined upon the destruction of the saint, who was in the habit of travelling from place to place in company with a white doe, the latter carrying in bags, sustained saddlewise, the few requisites considered necessary in early times for daily use, and a number of holy books and requirements for the services of religion. When in the neighbourhood of Derrygonneely, at a ford of the Sillees which is still shown, the hounds, probably wolfdogs or deer-hounds, of the unbelieving enemy were ruthlessly and ungallantly set upon her-for the saint was a female. In endeavouring to cross the river she all but lost several of the sacred writings, which were shaken from the bullogs or satchels, and would have been carried away by the stream but for a miraculous interposition in the shape of a small island which immediately made its appearance, and upon which the manuscripts were landed in a somewhat damaged condition." Delayed and irritated, the saint cursed the river, which was henceforth to be muddy and fishless, and generally fatal to those who ventured within its embrace. Certainly, whatever may be the cause, the Sillees, though not quite barren of fish, is a very bad field for the angler. The lake now turns off a little to the left and "Holly Island" is passed; and immediately afterwards the noble iron bridge of the Sligo, Leitrim, and Northern Co.'s Railway, which here spans the channel, appears in view. Steaming under this bridge we enter one of the narrowest passes of the Erne, which now takes its course for about half a mile through the beautifully wooded demesne of Killyhevlin. We emerge from this charming and romantic passage on a broad expanse of water, with a view of the mountains of Cuilca and Bennaghlan towering grey in the distance.

Before us is Lisgoole Abbey (Liggoole, "the fort of the River Forks "), once a monastery of considerable note, but now a modern dwelling, with beautifully laid out garden and grounds. The "Annals of the Four Masters" contain numerous references to this abbey, which is of very ancient date. No traces remain of the building or of its graveyard, where were interred many of the nobles of Ulster. Some of our readers may be interested in being informed that Lisgoole is the scene of the very old and once much admired novel "The Children of the Abbey,” written, we believe, by Anna Maria Porter. Opposite Lisgoole is Belview, the seat of Captain Collum.

We now pass, on the port bow, the "beautiful island" Iniskeen, once the site of the parish church for the district of Enniskillen. A

few fragments of the old edifice still remain, and the burial ground, which contains portions of very ancient crosses, is still in request as a last resting place for some of the old families of the neighbourhood.

An abrupt sweep round the shores of another point brings us up in view of Belnaleck Church, a plain, modern building, presenting nothing worthy of note; but as we proceed scenes of surpassing beauty meet the eye at every point, and lovers of the picturesque will enjoy rare treats in this singularly beautiful locality, and it is no exaggeration to say there is not in the British Islands, and probably in Europe, more exquisite scenes than are to be met with here.

Lough Erne, it is said, has been miraculously produced. Formerly, according to tradition, no water existed here only a spring well, and the Druid or Pagan priests of the time prophesied that the well would overflow the country if proper precautions were not taken for its prevention, and it was ordered that the well be enclosed in a strong wall, and covered with a door having a lock and key, signifying no danger while the door was secured; but an unfortunate woman (as by them came more mischief to mankind), opening the door for water, heard her child cry, and, running to its relief, forgot to secure the well; ere she could return, she, with her house and family, were drowned, and many houses more betwixt that and Ballyshannon; and so continues the Lough until this day."

It is curious to remark upon the traditions which the tourist will meet with all over Ireland. Lough Neagh is generally believed to have been formed by an irruption of the sea in A.D. 62, and, as Moore tells us, "The round towers of other days"

can be seen beneath its waters; but, unfortunately for the poet's theory, the ordinary level of Lough Neagh is forty-eight feet above the level of the sea at low water. Similar stories are told of several Irish lakes. A writer in the Dublin Penny Journal tells us the true source of Lough Erne is Lough Gawna, or Lake of the Calf, in the County of Longford, from which the River Erne expands into Lough Erne;" but at Lough Gawna they tell a different story-"that it was formed by a calf, and in the immediate vicinity, it is still called Tober Gawna, or Well of the Calf, who was chased by its water till he entered the sea at Ballyshannon.” The expansion of the Erne, thus miraculously formed, is no less than forty miles in extent from both extremities, and running the entire length through the whole County Fermanagh. Lough Erne, however, properly consists of two lakes, connected by a deep and winding strait, of which the northern, or lower, is twenty miles in length and seven

The Island of Bellisle.

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and a half miles across in its greatest breadth; and the southern, or upper, is twelve miles long, by four and a half broad. Both lakes are richly studded with islands, mostly wooded, and they are incom parably grand in their pleasing and tranquil beauty, as sylvan scenes gemmed upon the placid bosom of the lakes, and, though not surrounded by mountains of considerable elevation, as the Killarney lakes, they possess attractive charms which are, perhaps, equalled, but not surpassed, in Ireland. To the archæologist and antiquarian tourist some of the islands, as Devenish, possess a fascination which can scarcely be forgotten. Cleenish, or Claen-inis (the sloping island), now appears. A long. low, green island, where, in the sixth century, stood the church and monastery of St. Sinnell. This saint was usually considered amongst the ancient Irish as one of the "Twelve Apostles" of Erin, a noble band of workers and teachers, whose pupils made their country revered as a fountain of religious truth in every part of Europe, from Iceland to Sicily, and, as the Rev. Dr. Reeves has shown, even in Africa. The site of this ancient establishment is now only to be distinguished by a few mess-grown stones which show themselves here and there in a wilderness of weeds. But one fragment remains, part evidently of a corbel-stone, on which is carved a female head and face of some pretensions to beauty; the hair is plaited and drawn back in a form somewhat resembling a style of hair-dressing in fashion not many years ago.

From this point the lake, which here assumes the limits of a narrow channel, passes for more than a mile between Knock Island and Innismore, the largest island on the upper lake, and on which is situated the demesne of Innismore Hall. Carry Bridge connects it with the mainland. Further on the island of Belleisle comes in view, on which is seated a splendid mansion and demesne, formerly the residence of Lord Rosse, but now the property of Mr. J. G. V. Porter, the gentleman whose name we mentioned in connection with the drainage works at Belleek. The grounds at Belleisle, which contain some venerable yew trees and gardens, are very extensive. The house is substantial and commodious; it is surmounted by a lofty, square tower, from the top of which can be obtained a most magnificent and extensive view of the Upper Lake, its numerous isles, and the surrounding country.

Once past Belleisle, we glide again into the "Broad Lake," past Killygowan ("the wood of the smith"), formerly a deer park, but now deserted by those animals; past Naan or ("the ring island"), where are the remains of an ancient castle. Leaving Inisleague on our left, we approach Knockninny. The tourist must be struck with admiration of the rocky mountain which here rises before him thickly clothed with a

natural plantation, through which appear at intervals smooth green patches and huge grey boulders. On all sides is the lake, which here stretches to a great breadth, thickly studded with wooded islands, while in the distance appear Toppet mountain and the heathery heights around it.

The picturesque eminence of Knockninny, rising from the southern shore of upper Lough Erne, at a distance of about 10 miles from Enniskillen, seems to have derived its name from some connexion with

St. Ninnidh, a famous bishop who flourished contemporaneously with St. Columba, and whose principal establishment was on Inismacsaint.

The hill gives its name to the barony in which it is situate, but the district presents no ancient church site, cross, or "station," and a beautiful ever-flowing well, situate upon the shore of the lake, does not appear to have been associated with the name of Ninnidh, or indeed with that of any other saint.