remains at Monasterboice, and the beautiful and historic ruins at Mellifont. From the head of the glen to Mellifont is one mile, and from thence to Monasterboice two; Drogheda can be reached by a drive of about four miles from the latter place. Altogether, with time to see the various monuments, the little round need not occupy more than three hours.

Mellifont.

Here, upon the borders of Louth and Meath, which counties, at this spot, are separated by the little Mattock stream, situate in a sequestered glen, beautifully picturesque, are the ruins of an abbey, founded in 1142; and, at the dissolution of monasteries, granted, with all its possessions, to Sir Gerald Moore, ancestor of the Marquis of Drogheda. Here once dwelt Dearvorgilla, whose story is too well emphasized in Irish history. The ruins at present consist of an early pointed vault called "St. Bernard's Chapel," a fine tower, which appears to have been constructed for defensive purposes, and a most beautifully constructed building, commonly styled the " Baptistry." The groining of the vault is extremely elegant, as are also the capitals and bases of the supporting columns. Indeed, finer work of the early decorated style it would be found difficult to point to.

The tower is in a sadly dilapidated condition, and through its gateway now flows the stream of a neighbouring mill. The architectural lion of the place is the baptistry, already referred to. This, taken altogether, is a unique building, at least in Ireland. In form it is octagonal, each face being pierced with beautifully formed openings, surmounted by semi-circular recessed arches of admirable workmanship and design. On an adjoining grassy slope is a ruined church and an ancient cemetery. The architectural student cannot fail to be greatly interested in an examination of the supposed baptistry, a work which appears to belong to the earlier portion of the twelfth century, and which there is every reason to believe was constructed prior to the period of the first Anglo-Norman invasion of Ireland.

Monasterboice.

Within a distance of about two miles from Mellifont, on the way to Drogheda, stand in solitary grandeur the remains of this truly venerable spot. St. Bute, or Boetius, who, according to the Annals, died in A.D. 521, was the founder. A long list of its abbots and professors has been preserved. It was emphatically the monastery of the north-eastern yortion of Ireland until it became eclipsed by the neighbouring establish

1

Relics at Monasterboice.

147

ment, of which a notice has just been given. Like Glendalough, Clonard, and not a few other foundations of ante-Norman date in Ireland, Monasterboice for ages was celebrated for its learning and hospitality. Two churches remain, one of which is probably as old as the sixth century. It is a small building, with a square-headed doorway in its western gable. The other, and larger, exhibits characteristics of a much later period, and is probably about six hundred years old.

But of all the antiquities of Monasterboice the crosses of stone are the most remarkable. They are three in number, the tallest measuring 23 feet in height. A description of the smaller will suffice for that of the larger.

The smaller cross is indeed most eminently characteristic of the best period of Irish Christian art. The figures and ornaments, with which its various surfaces are profusely enriched, appear to have been executed with an unusual degree of care. The sacrilegious hands which attempted the ruin of the others have spared this, and it stands almost as perfect as when, nearly nine centuries ago, the artist we may presume pronounced his work completed, and kings and abbots, bards, shaunachies, warriors, ecclesiastics, and, perhaps, many a rival "cross builder," crowded round this very spot, full of wonder and admiration

for what they must have considered a truly glorious, and perhaps unequalled, work.

An inscription in the Irish character and language, upon the lowest part of the shaft, desires "a prayer for Muiredach by whom was made this cross," but as Dr. Petrie, by whom the inscription has been published, remarked, there were two of the name mentioned in the Irish Annals as having been connected with Monasterboice, one an abbot, who died in the year 844, and the other in the year 924, "so that it must be a matter of some uncertainty to which of these the erection of the cross should be ascribed." There is reason, however, to assign it to the latter, "6 as he was a man of greater distinction, and probably wealth, than the former, and therefore more likely to have been the erector of the crosses." Its height is exactly fifteen feet, and its breadth at the arm six. The figures of warriors and ecclesiastics, and other sculpturings upon this cross retain in remarkable degree their original sharpness of execution. The former are invaluable, affording as they do an excellent idea of the dress both military and ecclesiastical in use amongst the Irish during the ninth or tenth century. Most of the designs clearly refer to Scripture history. One compartment contains our first parents, with a tree, round the stem of which the serpent is coiled, standing between them. Within the circle on the east side is the last judgment. Christ, holding a cross and sceptre, has ranged upon his right hand troops of the blessed, who are singing and playing upon musical instruments, amongst which the old Irish harp seems to hold a prominent place. On the left hand side of the Redeemer are the fallen, who are being hurried away by devils, one arch fiend being armed with a trident. In one compartment immediately below is St. Michael weighing a soul in a huge pair of scales, while Satan, trying to cheat him, is crouched beneath endeavouring to turn the beam in his own favour. Another subject is the adoration of the wise men, a star being represented above the head of the infant. There are figures of warriors armed with swords, spears, and other weapons, amongst which the axe and sling are conspicuous. The men, it may be observed, bear small circular targets, like those to a late period in use amongst the highlanders of Scotland. In a work like this it would be out of place to notice these crosses more fully, but any verbal description would fail to give a fair idea of the originals. Photography alone could in any considerable measure do so.

The tourist is once more supposed to be seated in the train, facing northward. The noble viaduct over the valley of the Boyne is immediately reached. From this point an excellent view is obtained of the greater portion of the old town, Magdalene Steeple, and the mound

1

upon which stands a fortification representing a citadel, which during Cromwell's siege of the place was so ably defended, being most prominent. It is curious to look down upon the shipping, almost wholly and often directly beneath the lattice work of the viaduct, and see the noble boats belonging to the Drogheda Steam Packet Company, and think that just above the bridge are to be found still in daily use the curach or cot, composed of wicker-work, covered with skins, which class of boats were in use in the British islands more than two thousand years ago! Where can be seen such contrasts as Ireland presents? The viaduct is extremely grand and stupendous in appearance; it measures 95 feet in height. Full-rigged ships sail without striking topmast beneath the lattice bridge, which consists of one central arch with two bays, the former 250 feet wide, the others 125 feet each. Besides the “ lattice” the viaduct comprises on the Meath side of the river twelve superb arches of stone, each of 60 feet span, and on the south side three of a similar character.

occurs.

After passing Drogheda nothing of further interest to the tourist The village of Castlebellingham, about one and a-half miles from the station, has long been famous for the manufacture of its ale. The observant traveller looking to the left side of the line will see at intervals tall square keeps, either ruined or used by farmers, which during the fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries were the residences of some of the principal gentry of the Pale; these of course he cannot stop to examine. The country here is a rich flat, like the plains of Fingal, through which we have already passed, and is usually applied to grazing purposes. For some time we have lost sight of the sea, but richly wooded heights in the distance tell of well preserved demesnes and of a prosperous gentry. At Dundalk station we tread upon historic ground, but as the stay is short, the town being some distance from the junction, the traveller will not have much time to study the "lions" of the district.

Dundalk.

This is the chief town of Louth; it is situated at the head of a magnificent bay, and as, along with a very fine harbour, it possesses the advantage of an important railway centre, it is the chief medium of export for cattle, and every description of farm produce, from the western and north-western provinces.

Here the railway branches off to Derry, Bundoran, and Enniskillen, where it is joined by the Sligo, Leitrim, and Northern Counties Railway. From this station also a line runs to Greenore, the recently

established packet station, by which route the sea passage to England from this part of the country is considerably shortened.

Although in a very flourishing condition with regard to trade and commerce, the town is in itself flat and unattractive. Its chief ornament is Dundalk House-one of the residences of Lord Rodenan imposing turretted mansion, surrounded by well laid-out grounds. The demesne, which possesses noble avenues of splendid trees, is open to the public.

Dundalk is an old town, and was formerly fortified; traces may be still seen of its walls, and also of the tower of its ancient monastery.

Here Edward Bruce was crowned, and lived in royal splendour for about two years, and it was on the hill of Faughard adjacent that a battle was fought between Bruce, with his Scotch and Irish followers, and John de Bermingham, at the head of an English army, which resulted in the death of Bruce and many of his chieftains and the total rout of his followers.

An immense earthen tumulus may be observed on the hill of Faughard, in which, tradition relates, the body of Bruce is interred.

Goragh Wood.

At this junction passengers branch off for Newry, Warrenpoint, and Rostrevor.

Newry.

At a little distance Newry presents a very pleasing prospect. It lies in a valley, and is built on undulating ground, the irregularity of which gives it an uncommon appearance. The Carlingford mountains overlook the town, and add much to its picturesque effect.

On a near approach it is perceived to be a well-built and very prosperous maritime town, with many handsome houses, good shops, a large number of factories, and a long line of quays. It is especially remarkable for its manufacture of mineral waters by an enterprising company employing many hands. (See Appendix.)

Besides steamship communication with several ports of England and Scotland, Newry has many miles of inland navigation by means of its canal, which runs from Warrenpoint to Lough Neagh, a distance of about forty miles.

A visit to the factory of Messrs. Richardson at Bessbrook will well repay the tourist.