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Hoop, v. n. & v. a. Goth. wopgan or HOOPING-COUGH, n. s. woрyan, or French heupper, derived from the Gothic. This word is often written whoop, which is more proper if we deduce it from the Gothic; and hoop if we derive it from the French.-Johnson. To shout; to make an outcry by way of call or pursuit. Hooping-cough, or whooping-cough, from hoop to shout. A convulsive cough, so called from its noise; the chincough.

And, therwithal, they shriked and they houped;
It semed as that the heven shulde falle.

Chaucer. The Nonnes Preestes Tale.
Dastard nobles

Suffered me, by the voice of slaves, to be
Hooped out of Rome. Shakspeare. Coriolanus.
HOOPER (George), a learned author, born
at Grimeley in Worcestershire, about 1640. He
was educated at Westminster, studied at Oxford,
and was well skilled in mathematics, and the
eastern languages. In 1672 he became chaplain
to the bishop of Winchester; and soon after to
archbishop Sheldon; and in 1677 almoner to
the princess of Orange, whom he accompanied
to Holland. In 1691 he was made dean of
Canterbury; and in 1702 bishop of Bath and
Wells. He wrote, 1. The Church of England
free from the imputation of Popery; 2. A
Discourse concerning Lent; 3. New danger of
Presbytery; 4. An Enquiry into the state of
the Ancient Measures; 5. De Valentinianorum
hæresi conjecture; 6. Several sermons; and 7.
An Enquiry into the state of the Ancient Mea-
sures; the Attic, Roman, and Jewish; with an
appendix, concerning our old English money
and measures; 1721, 8vo. He died in 1727.
All his works were printed in 1 vol. folio, at
Oxford, 1757.

HOOPER (John), bishop of Worcester, was born in Somersetshire, and educated at Oxford. In 1518 he took the degree of A. B., and afterwards became a Cistercian monk; but, disliking his fraternity, returned to Oxford, and became somewhat of a Lutheran. In 1539 he was made chaplain and steward to Sir John Arundel, who afterwards suffered with the protector in the reign of Edward VI. But that very Catholic knight, as Wood calls him, discovering him to be a heretic, he was obliged to leave the kingdom. After continuing some time in France he returned to England, and lived with a gentleman named Seintlow; but, being again discovered, he escaped in the habit of a sailor to Ireland; thence embarked for the continent, and fixed his abode in Switzerland. Upon Edward's accession, Mr. Hooper returned once more to his native country. In 1550, by his old patron Sir John Arundel's interest with the earl of Warwick, he was consecrated bishop of Gloucester; and in 1552 was nominated to the see of Worcester, which he held in commendam with the former. But Mary had scarce ascended the throne, before he was imprisoned, tried, and condemned to the flames. He suffered at

Gloucester on the 9th of February, 1554, being then near sixty years of age. He was an avowed enemy to the church of Rome, and in the former reign had been one of Bonner's accusers.

HOORN, a sea-port town of the Netherlands, in North Holland; in the department of the Texel, and late province of West Friesland. Its name is derived from the curving shape of the port; and it is the capital of an extensive district of North Holland. In 1426 it was surrounded with the walls, and, in 1508, greatly enlarged; but in 1557 it was almost destroyed by a storm and inundation which broke down the dams. In 1577 the harbour was built, which is reckoned the best on the Zuider Zee. The adjacent lands are fertile, and famed for fattening cattle. The town is still fortified, and has five gates, several churches and hospitals. Hence also commences a canal, which leads through Alcmaer to Petten, and connects the Zuider Zee with the North Sea.

The manufactures are of carpets and woollen cloths; ship-building is also extensively carried on. Its trade is in cattle, butter, cheese, and herrings, and is very extensive. This town was entered by a strong body of British (12,000), on the 19th of September, 1799, while the Russians and the remainder of our troops were engaged at Alcmaer in an action which terminated unfavorably; these troops bore a part next day in the second battle of Alcmaer. Hoorn was the birth-place of Schouten the navigator. Population about 9000: fourteen miles east of Alcmaer, and twenty N. N. E. of Amsterdam.

HOORN, or HORN, a town of France in the department of the Lower Meuse, and late bishopric of Liege; three miles west of Ruremond, and twelve south of Venlo. Long. 5° 55′ E, lat. 51° 12′ N.

HOORN, or HORN ISLANDS, two islands in the South Pacific Ocean, on the north of the Friendly Isles, discovered in the year 1616 by Le Maire and Schouten, who landed and staid here some days; their ship lying at anchor at the mouth of a river called, after the name of the vessel, the Gulf of Concord. They are supposed to be the same islands which are called Hamoa by the natives. Long. 171° 30' E., lat. 15° S.

HOORNBECK (John), professor of divinity in the universities of Leyden and Utrecht, was born at Haerlem in 1617. He was well acquainted with the classical, oriental, and European languages, and published many works; among which are, 1. A refutation of Socinianism, in 3 vols. 4to.; 2. A Treatise for the conviction of the Jews; 3. Of the Conversion of the Heathen; 4. Institutiones Theologicæ, &c. Bayle represents him as a complete model of a divinity professor.

HOOT, v. n,, v. a., & n. s. Fr. huer, huec;
Welsh hut; Swed. hut. To shout in contempt;
to cry as an owl; to drive with noise and shout.
Clamor; noise; shouting.

We loved him; but, like beasts,
Our coward nobles gave way to your clusters,
Who did hoot him out o' the' city. Shakspeare.

Some keep back
The clamorous owl, that nightly hoots, and wonders
At our queint sports.

Id.

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When the falling stars are shooting, And the answered owls are hooting.

Swift.

Byron. Manfred. HOP, v. n. & n. s. Sax. poppan; Teut. HOPPERS, n. s. hoppen; Swedish, hoppa. HOPPER, n. s. To jump or skip lightly; to leap on one leg; to walk lamely or halt. A hop is a jump; also a place where meaner people dance. Hopper, he who hops or jumps on one leg; the box or open frame of wood into which the corn is put to be ground, so called because it is always hopping, or in agitation, and which is called in French, for the same reason, tremie or tremue; a basket for carrying seed. In Saxon to hoppe signifies exactly the same as to dance, though with us it hath acquired a ludicrous sense; and hopster is a female dancer.'-Notes to Chaucer. Hoppers, commonly called Scotch hoppers, a kind of play in which the actor hops on one leg. Right by the hopper wol I stand

Quod John and seen how that the corn gas in;
Yet, saw I never (by my fader kin)!
How that the hopper wagges til and fra.

Chaucer. The Reves Tale.
Yet, saw I brent the shippes hoppesteres.
Id. The Knightes Tale.
Softly fert
Her feeble pulse, to prove if any drop
Of living blood yet in her veins did hop.
Faerie Queene.
I would have thee gone,
And yet no further than a wanton's bird,
That lets it hop a little from her hand,
And with a silk thread plucks it back again.

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Just at the hopper will I stand,

In my whole life I never saw grist ground, And mark the clack how justly it will sound.

Betterton.

The salt of the lake Asphaltites shooteth into perfect cubes. Sometimes they are pyramidal and plain, like the hopper of a mill. Grew.

When my wings are on, I can go above a hundred yards at a hop, step, and jump. Addison.

I am highly delighted to see the jay or the thrush hopping about my walks. Id. Spectator. Why don't we vindicate ourselves by trial or deal, aud hop over heated ploughshares blindfold?

Collier. Graminivorous birds have the mechanism of a mill: their maw is the hopper which holds and softens the grain, letting it drop by degrees into the stomach. Arbuthnot on Aliments.

Hop, n. s. & v. a. Belg. hop; Lat. lupulus, or perhaps from hoop, to bind round. A plant used in the composition of beer: hop to impregnate with hops.

If hop yard or orchard ye mind for to have, For hop poles and crotches in lopping to save.

Tusser.

The planting of hop yards is profitable for the planters, and consequently for the kingdom. Bacon. Beer hath malt first infused in the liquor, and is afterwards boiled with the hop. Id.

Next to thistles are hop strings, cut after the flowers are gathered. Derham. Brew in October, and hop it for long keeping.

Mortimer. Have the poles without forks, otherwise it will be troublesome to part the hop vines and the poles.

Id.

When you water hops, on the top of every hill put dissolved dung, which will enrich your hop hills.

an acre.

Id.

In Kent they plant their hop gardens with appletrees and cherry-trees between. Id. The price of hoeing of hop ground is forty shillings Id. Hop holes, the largest sort, should be about twenty foot long, and about nine inches in compass. Id. To increase the milk, diminished by flesh meat, take malt-driuk not much hopped. Arbuthnot.

Hop, in botany, see HUMULUS. Hops were first brought into England from the Netherlands in the year 1524. They are first mentioned in the English statute-book in 1552, viz. in the 5 and 6 of Edw. VI. cap. 5. And by an act of parliament of the first year of king James I. anno 1603, cap. 18, it appears that hops were then produced in abundance in England. The consider what relates to the culture and managehop being a plant of great importance, we shall ment of it, under distinct heads.

The hop-planters esteem the richest and strongest ground the most proper; and, if it be rocky within two or three feet of the surface, the hops will prosper well; but they will not thrive on a stiff clay or spongy wet land. The Kentish planters esteem new land best for hops; they plant their hop-gardens with apple trees at a large distance, and with cherry trees be tween; and when the land has done its best for hops, which they reckon it will in about ten years, the trees may begin to bear. The cherry trees last about thirty years, and, by the time the apple trees are large, they cut down the cherries. The Essex planters reckon a moory land the

most proper for hops. As to the situation of a hop-ground, one that inclines to the south or west is the most eligible; but, if it be exposed to the north-east or south-west winds, there should be a shelter of some trees at a distance, because the north-east winds are apt to nip the tender shoots in the spring; and the south-west winds frequently break and blow down the poles at the end of sunmer, and very much endanger the hops. In winter provide soil and manure for the hop-ground against the following spring. If the dung be rotten mix it with two or three parts of earth, and let it incorporate together till you have occasion to use it in making your hop hills; but, if it be new dung, then let it be mixed as before till the spring in the next year, for new dung is very injurious to hops. Dung of all sorts was formerly more commonly used than it is now, especially when rotted and turned to mould, and they who have no other manure must use it which if they do, cows' or hogs' dung, or human ordure mixed with mud, may be a proper compost, because hops delight most in manure that is cool and moist.

Hops require to be planted in a situation so open as that the air may freely pass round and between them, to dry up and dissipate the moisture, whereby they will not be so subject to fireblasts, which often destroy the middle of large plantations, while the outsides remain unhurt. As for the preparation of the ground for planting, it should in the preceding winter be ploughed and harrowed even; and then lay upon it in heaps a good quantity of fresh rich earth, or well rotted dung and earth mixed together, sufficient to put half a bushel in every hole to plant the hops in, unless the natural ground be very fresh and good. The hills where the hops are to be planted should be eight or nine feet asunder, that the air may freely pass between them; for in close plantations they are very subject to what the hop-planters call the fire-blast. If the ground is intended to be ploughed with horses between the hills, it will be best to plant them in squares chequerwise; but if it be so small that it may be done with the breast-plough or spade, the holes should be ranged in a quincunx form. Which way soever is adopted, a stake should be stuck down at all the places where the hills are to be made. Great caution should be observed in the choice of the plants, as to the kind of hop; for if the hop-garden be planted with a mixture of several sorts of hops that ripen at different times, it will cause a great deal of trouble, and be a great detriment to the owner. The two best sorts are the white and the gray bind; the latter is a large square hop, more hardy, and is a more plentiful bearer, and ripens later than the former. There is another sort of the white bind, which ripens a week or ten days before the common; but this is tenderer, a: da less plentiful bearer; but it has this advantage, that it comes first to market. But if three grounds, or three distant parts of one ground, be planted with these three sorts, there will be this convenience, that they may be picked successively as they become ripe. The sets should be five or six inches long, with three or more joints or buds on them. If there be a sort of

hop you value, and would increase plants and sets from, the superfluous binds may be laid down when the hops are tied, cutting off the tops, and burying them in the hill; or, when the hops are dressed, all the cuttings may be saved; for almost every part will grow, and become a good set the next spring. As to the seasons of planting hops, the Kentish planters prefer October and March, both which sometimes succeed very well; but the sets are not to be had in October, unless from some ground that is to be destroyed; and likewise there is some danger that the sets may be rotted, if the winter prove very wet; therefore the most usual time of procuring them is in March, when the bops are cut and dressed. As to the manner of planting the sets, there should be five good sets planted in every hill, one in the middle and the rest round about sloping, the tops meeting at the centre; they must stand even with the surface of the ground; let them be pressed close with the hand, and covered with fine earth, and a stick should be placed on each side the hill to secure it. The ground being thus planted, all that is to be done more during that summer, is to keep the hills clear from weeds, and to dig up the ground in May, and to raise a small hill round about the plants. In June you must twist the young binds or branches together into a bunch or knot; for if they are tied up to small poles the first year, in order to have a few hops from them, it will not countervail the weakening of the plants. A mixture of compost or dung being prepared for hop-ground, the best time for laying it on, if the weather prove dry, is about Michelmas, that the wheels of the dung-cart may not injure the hops, nor furrow the ground: if this be not done then, you must wait till the frost has hardened the ground, so as to bear the dung-cart; and this is also the time to carry on your new poles, to recruit those that are decayed and to be cast out every year. If you have good store of dung, the best way will be to spread it in the alleys all over the ground, and to dig it in the winter following. The quantity they will require will be forty loads to an acre, reckoning about thirty bushels to the load. If you have not dung enough to cover all the ground in one year, you may lay it on one part one year, and on the rest in another, or a third; for there is no occasion to dung the ground after this manner oftener than once in three years. Those who have but a small quantity of dung, usually content themselves with laying on about twenty loads upon an acre every year; this they lay only on the hills, either about November, or in the spring; which last some account the best time, when the hops are dressed, to cover them after they are cut; but, if it be done at this time, the compost or dung ought to be very well rotted and fine. As to the dressing of the hops, when the hopground is dug in January or February, the earth about the hits and very near them, ought to be taken away with a spade, that you may come the more conveniently at ine stock to cut it. About the end of February, if the hops were planted the spring before, or if the ground be weak, they ought to be dressed in dry weather; but else, if the ground be strong and in perfection, the

middle of March will be a good time; and the latter end of March, if it be apt to produce over rank binds, or the beginning of April may be soon enough. Then having with an iron picker cleared away all the earth out of the hills, so as to clear the stock to the roots, with a sharp knife you must cut off all the shoots which grew up with the binds the last year; and also all the young suckers, that none be left to run in the alley, and weaken the hill. It will be proper to cut one part of the stock lower than the other, and also to cut that part low that was left highest the preceding year. By pursuing this, method you may expect to have stronger buds and also keep the hill in good order. In dressing those hops that have been planted the year before, you ought to cut off both the dead tops and the young suckers which have sprung up from the sets, and also to cover the stocks with fine earth a finger's length in thickness.

About the middle of April the hops are to be poled, when the shoots begin to sprout up; the poles must be set to the hills deep into the ground, with a square iron picker or crow, that they may the better endure the winds; three poles are sufficient for one hill. These should be placed as near the hill as may be, with their bending tops turned outwards from the hill, to prevent the binds from entangling; and a space between two poles ought to be left open to the south to admit the sun-beams. The poles ought to be in length sixteen or twenty feet, more or less, according as the ground is in strength; and great care must be taken not to overpole a young or weak ground, for that will draw the stock too much, and weaken it. If a ground be overpoled, you are not to expect a good crop from it; for the branches which bear the hops will grow very little till the binds have over-reached the poles, which they cannot do when the poles are too long. Two small poles are sufficient for a ground that is young. If you wait till the sprouts or young binds are grown to the length of a foot, you will be able to make a better judgment where to place the largest poles; but, if you stay till they are so long as to fall into the alleys, it will be injurious to them, because they will ertangle one with another, and will not clasp about the pole readily. Maple or aspen poles are accounted the best for hops, on which they are thought to prosper best, because of their warmth; or else, because the climbing of the hop is promoted by means of the roughness of the bark. But, for durability, ashen or willow poles are preferable; but chestnut poles are the most durable of all. If, after the hops are grown up, you find any of them have been underpoled, taller poles may be placed near those that are too short to receive the binds from them.

As to the tying of hops, the buds that do not clasp of themselves to the nearest pole, when they are grown to three or four feet high, must be guided to it by the hand, turning them to the sun, whose course they always follow. They must be bound with withered rushes, but not so close as to hinder them from climbing up the pole. Continue to do this till all the poles are furnished with binds, of which two or three are VOL. XI.

enough for a pole; and all the sprouts and binds that you have no occasion for are plucked up; but, if the ground be young, then none of these useless binds should be plucked up, but should be wrapped up together in the middle of the hill. When the binds are grown beyond the reach of your hands, if they forsake the poles, you should make use of a stand ladder in tying them up. Towards the end of May, when you have made an end of tying them, the ground must have the summer dressing: this is done by casting up with the spade some fine earth into every hill. A month after this hoe the alleys with a Dutch hoe, and make the hills up to a convenient bigness. About the middle of July hops begin to blow, and will be ready to gather about Bartholomew-tide. A judgment may be made of their ripeness by their strong scent, their hardness, and the brownish color of their seed. When by these tokens they appear to be ripe, they must be picked with all the expedition possible; for if at this time a storm of wind should come, it would do them great damage by breaking the branches, and bruising and discoloring the hops; and it is very well known, that hops picked green and bright will sell for a third more than those which were discolored and brown. The most convenient way of picking them is into a long square frame of wood, called a bin, with a cloth hanging on tenter hooks within it, to receive the hops as they are picked. The frame is composed of four pieces of wood joined together, supported by four legs, with a prop at each end to bear up another long piece of wood, placed at a convenient height over the middle of the bin; this serves to lay the poles upon, which are to be picked. This bin is commonly eight feet long, and three feet broad; two poles may be laid on it at a time, and six or eight persons may work at it, three or four on each side. It will be best to begin to pick the hops on the east or north side of the ground, if you can do it conveniently; this will prevent the south-west wind from breaking into the garden. Having made choice of a plot of ground, containing eleven hills square, place the bin upon the hill which is in the centre, having five hills on each side; and, when these hills are picked, remove the bin into another piece of ground of the same extent, and so proceed till the whole hop-ground is finished. When the poles are drawn up to be picked, take care not to cut the binds too near the hills, especially when the hops are green, because it will make the sap to flow excessively. The hops must be picked very clean, i. e. free from leaves and stalks; and, as there shall be occasion, two or three times in a day the bin must be emptied into a hop-bag made of coarse linen cloth, and carried immediately to the oast or kiln to be dried; for, if they should be long in the bir or bag, they will be apt to heat and be discolored If the weather be hot there should no more poles be drawn than can be picked in an hour, and they should be gathered in fair weather if it can be, and when the hops are dry; this will save some expense in firing, and preserve their color better when they are dried. The crops of hops being thus bestowed, take care of

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the poles against another year, which are best to be laid up in a shed, having first stripped off the haulm from them; but if you have not that convenieucy, set up three poles in the form of a triangle, or six poles as you please, wide at bottom; and having set them into the ground with an iron picker, and bound them together at the top, set the rest of your poles about them; and, being thus disposed, none but those on the outside wil be subject to the injuries of the weather, for the inner poles will be kept dry, unless at the top; whereas, if they were on the ground, they would receive more damage in a fortnight then by standing all the rest of the year. The best method of drying hops is with charcoal on an oast or kiln, covered with hair-cloth, of the same form and fashion as that used for drying malt. There is no need of particular directions for making these, as every carpenter and bricklayer in those countries where hops grow, or malt is made, knows how to build them. The kiln ought to be square, and may be of ten, twelve, fourteen, or sixteen feet over at the top, where the hops are laid, as the plantation requires, and room will allow. There ought to be a due proportion between the height and breadth of the kiln and the beguels of the steddle where the fire is kept, viz. if the kiln be twelve feet square on the top, it ought to be nine feet high from the fire, and the steddle ought to be six feet and a half square, and so proportionably in other dimensions. The hops must be spread even upon the oast a foot thick or more, if the depth of the curb will allow it; but care must be taken not to overload the oast if the hops be green or wet. The oast ought to be first warmed with a fire before the hops are laid on, and then an even steady fire must be kept under them; it must not be too fierce at first, lest it scorch the hops, nor must it be suffered to sink or slacken, but rather be increased, till the hops be nearly dried, lest the moisture or sweat which the fire has raised fall back and discolor them. When they have lain about nine hours they must be turned, and in two or three hours more they may be taken off the oast. It may be known when they are well dried by the brittleness of the stalks and the easy falling off of the hop leaves. It is found by experience that the turning of hops, though it be after the most easy and best manner, is not only an injury to the hops, but also a waste of fuel and time, because they require as much fuel and as long a time to dry a small quantity, by turning them, as a large one. Now this may be prevented by having a cover to be let down and raised at pleasure to the upper bed whereon the hops lie. This cover may also be tinned, by nailing single tin plates over the face of it; so that when the hops begin to dry, and are ready to burn, i. e. when the greatest part of their moisture is evaporated, then the cover may be let down within a foot or less of the hops like a reverberatory, which will reflect the heat upon them, so that the top will soon be as dry as the lowermost, and every hop be equally dried. As soon as the hops are taken off the kiln lay them in a room for three or four weeks to cool, give, and toughen; for if they are bagged immediately they

will powder, but if they lie a while (and the longer they lie the better, provided they be covered close with blankets to secure them from the air) they may be bagged with more safety, not being liable to be broken to powder in treading; and this will make them bear treading the better, and the harder they are trodden the better they will keep. The common method of bagging is as follows: they have a hole made in an upper floor, either round or square, large enough to receive a hop-bag, which consists of four ells and a half of ell-wide cloth, and also contains ordinarily 24 cwt. of hops; they tie a handful of hops in each lower corner of the bag to serve as handles to it; and they fasten the mouth of the bag, so placed that the hoop may rest upon the edges of the hole. Then he that is to tread the hops down into the bag, treads the hops on every side, another person continually putting them in as he treads them till the bag is full; which being well filled and trodden, they unrip the fastening of the bag to the hoops, let it down, and close up the mouth of the bag, tying up a handful of hops in each corner, as was done in the lower part. Hops being thus packed, if they have been well dried, and laid up in a dry place, will keep good several years; but care must be taken that they be not spoiled by the mice making their nests in them.

In spring, while the bud is yet tender, the tops of the plant being cut off and boiled are eaten like asparagus, and found very wholesome, and of service to loosen the body. The heads and tendrils are good to purify the blood in the scurvy, and most cutaneous diseases; decoctions of the flowers, and syrups thereof, are of use against pestilential fevers; juleps and apozems were formerly made with hops for hypochron driacal and hysterical affections, and to promote the menses. A pillow stuffed with hops, and laid under the head, is said to procure sleep in fevers attended with a delirium. His late majesty George III. had a pillow of this kind presented for his use in 1787. But the principal use of hops is in the brewery, for the preservation of malt liquors; which, by the superaddition of this balsamic, aperient, and diuretic bitter, become less viscid, less apt to turn sour, more palatable, more disposed to pass off by urine, and in general more salubrious. They are said to contain an agreeable odoriferous principle, which promotes the vinous fermentation. When slightly boiled, or infused in warm water, they increase its spirituosity.

To judge of the quality of hops, observe how far a yellow clamminess, peculiar to this plant, abounds in the sample: the brightest colored hops are not always the best flavored; but purchasers dwell much on the color, which should therefore be preserved as bright as possible. A hop plantation, on a good soil, may be continued from fifteen to thirty years. They in general, however, begin to decline about the tenth year. Some advise that the plantation should then be destroyed, and a fresh one made; others consider it the best plan to break up and plant a portion of new ground every two years, letting an equal quantity of the old be destroyed, as in

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