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tops of the hills, and the primordial of an individual by the number of branches grow to a much greater trees which he possesses. height. Its elevation does not exceed I have been assured, that there are forty or fifty feet, and its diameter no indigenous quadrupeds in this is from one foot to fifteen inches. country. The only birds which I Though the branches have a tendency saw in the woods, are loxia cardinalis to approach the trunk, those of the and the blue bird motacilla sialis, old trees come in contact with each which, as is known, belong to the other, which may give some idea of continent of North America. the distance at which they are placed. These trees are not cut regularly; they tell one in any place when they think that it is fit for the intended use, and they leave to nature the care of renewing their ravages, and certainly to this negligence may be attributed the high price of this wood.

Every year in the months of March and April, the cachalot approaches very near the coasts; some of the inhabitants, but particularly the free men of colour, give themselves up to this fishery.

The most common shells here be long to the genus turbo, donax, mytillus. Those of the last species are very abundant, and not above five or six lines in length.

The period when I was at Bermuda was the flowering season. The female individuals might be known at the distance of fifteen or twenty paces, Agriculture, which is now almost by the deeper colour of their foliage, annihilated at the Bermudas, was forThe grains are ripe towards the end merly very flourishing. The proof of October; but they fall in the of this may be had by looking at the course of the winter, and spite of my registers of the custom-house, which researches I perceived only a few make mention of the quantity of upon the trees. I should have been sugars and wines exported annually very anxious to gather them; for I from the colony. The present inhadoubt not that this tree would be a bitants employ the small number of great acquisition both for the island of negroes which they possess to cultiCorsica, and for some parts of our vate pulse and maize, and to raise southern departments which border poultry. They have also very little upon the Mediterranean. They cattle, and I did not see in this island make a syrup of these grains, which above a dozen cows, who appeared is reputed useful in certain pulmonary complaints.

to bite with difficulty the species of mendicago of which I have spoken. There are places in the country that might produce better pasturage, but they are all planted with juniperus. Provisions of all sorts are so scarce and so dear, that vessels of war which come perpetually to Bermuda, can procure nothing there but onions and potatoes.

The juniperus bermudian is very much esteemed for the quality of its wood; the grain is fine and close, and more charged with resinous particles than the juniperus virginiana. As in this last species the sap is not more than five or six lines in thickness in a tree of twelve or fourteen inches in diameter, this wood is em There is but one sort of stone in ployed to make sloops, and in all this island, which is found every times this has been the principal where at the depth of a few feet. branch of industry among the Ber- When it first comes from the quarry mudians. These vessels are esteemed it is very white, and so tender, that on account of their long duration. It it may be reduced to powder by is said, however, that they are more one's fingers: after it has been exposed likely to split if they touch upon any to the air, it becomes a deep grey, thing, than one made of oak. Some and acquires a sufficient hardiness. months since six cutters, from 120 Viewed through a lens it appeared to 140 tons each, were built at the to me to be composed of a very fine Bermudas by order of the English go- sand and shells. There are two quar

vernment.

ries worked near the town. in each of The juniperus bermudiana consti- which are employed eight or ten netutes the sole wealth of the inhabi- groes or mulattoes, who gain from tants; and they estimate the fortune a piastre to one and a half per day.

The labour is easy: the stones, when however, in some of them the carica detached from the mass are sawed in papaya, the meliu azedarach, the flat pieces of about two feet in length banyan tree, and the geranium roseum, and six or eight inches thick.

and zonale. Very few people are to be met in the streets, and the inhabitants appear to be extremely indolent. There are not above five or six merchants in the town, who sell, very dear, spices, iron ware, and drapery. The Americans bring into the coun

Neither in the island St. George, nor hardly in any of the others, is there to be seen either springs or streams, and experience has proved, that pits cannot be dug for it; hence they use only rain water, which, from the precautions they use, suffices not only for try planks, maize, meal, butter, and the consumption of the inhabitants, but also for supplying ships of war, who put into Bermuda only for that. purpose.

some other provisions, for which they pay ready money.

The population is estimated at about eight or nine thousand. I do not About one hundred paces from the know the proportion between the edge of the sea are constructed upon whites and the negroes who, it is an inclined plane, two immense ter- said, are the most numerous. The rasses of a triangular form, intended lower classes are accused of watching for the reception of the rain water for ships during a tempest, that they which runs into cisterns, near may pillage those which have the which they roll the empty casks and misfortune of striking on the shore: fill them with pumps. and the Bermudian corsairs have always been esteemed formidable. These islands are said to be very

These terrasses are constructed in masonry, surrounded by a wall, and though they occupy each a space of healthy; and this need not be doubt450 or 500 fathoms, they are not al- ed, from their situation and internal ways adequate to the supplying all conforination. the vessels. The distance of the government cisterns from the town is about a mile. The road that leads to it is about eight or ten feet broad, and shadowed with juniperus. Vessels of war of the first and second size not

FRANCIS ANDRE MICHAUX,

On the MANNERS of the GREEKS,
ARABS, and TURKS. By M. CHA-

TEAUBRIANT.

DE CHATEAUBRIANT has lately published some details upon anchor on the coast, and are con- the manners of the Greeks, the Arabs, ducted by a pilot to the distance of and the Turks; details which are of one or two miles from the cisterns. so interesting a nature, that we are The town of St. George does not happy in having an opportunity of precontain more than from 250 to 300 senting them to our readers. houses, It is divided into twelve In visiting Greece, Palestine, Egypt, streets, which are very narrow and and Barbary, I had not, says M. Chanot paved; and only one of which teaubriant, the least design of writing is capable of admitting a carriage: my travels. I merely wished to avail the houses, only half of which have myself of the language of the ancients a story above the ground floor, are to cure my own ignorance. Having for the most part covered with yel, been occupied for some years in prelow plaister of Paris. All of them are paring a work, which is intended to constructed of stone, and covered with serve as proof to the Genie du Christiles fastened together at their extre- tianisme, I thought it was incumbent mities, with a gutter round the roof upon me to visit those spots where I to receive the rain water; this roof, had placed my characters. I could which is painted white, reflects the rays of the sun in a manner very painful to the eves.

being able to enter the port, they M.

have but little confidence in what I wrote, until I could say, like Ulysses, "I have seen the manners and the Many houses have little gardens, countries, I have endeavoured to paint the walls of which are covered with them to you exactly as they appeared Indian fig trees, cactus opuntia. No- to me.".

thing but the most common plants Before parting for the Levant, I are cultivated in them. I have seen, studied very minutely all authors,

dustry.

I

both ancient and modern, who treat have them mended; so much they of Greece and Judea. These notes, fear to be suspected of wealth and inand those which I have collected on the places themselves, are the materials which I have amassed for my work; but among the things which I have seen, there are some that are perfectly useless to me. Every thing, for example, relative to the customs of the modern inhabitants, cannot find a place in my work, because the scene of it is placed in ancient times. I have therefore separated every thing that is not immediately connected with my plan, but which may yet be found interesting in a literary point of view, These particulars I propose giving to the public; but I beg that they will constantly remember, that it is not a regular voyage which I am detailing, but only a few scattered observations and general recollections.

I embarked at Trieste, the 1st Aug. 1806. We sailed rapidly out of the Adriatic Sea. On the 8th we discovered Skerie (Corfou) and Buthrotum, which recalled to my mind two of the finest scenes in the Odyssey and the Eneid. We saw the rock of Ithaca. Gladly would I have landed to visit the garden of Laertes, the cabin of Eumeus, and even the place where the dog of Ulysses died with joy at seeing his master again.

We passed the islands of Zantha and Cephalonia; and on the 10th, in the morning, the mountains of Elide began to appear in the northern horizon. On the 11th we cast anchor before Modon, the ancient Mothon, near Pylos. I saluted the shores of Greece, and the long boat of the vessel carried me close to the walls of Modon. I continued my journey by land.

From Modon I went to Coron, situated in the Messenian gulf. crossed this gulf; I entered Arcadia by one of the Hermæums of mount Lyceus; I passed by Megalopolis, the work of Epaminondas, and the country of Philopemen; I arrived at Tripolizza, a new town in the valley of Tegeus, at the foot of Menalus. I returned again to visit Sparta, Taygetus, and the valley of Laconia. From thence I took the road of Argos along the mountains: I contemplated all that remains of the city of the king of kings: I stopped at Mycena and at Corinth. In passing the isthmus by the Geranian mountains, I saw an Aga wound a Greek with a musket shot, and give him afterwards fifty blows with a stick to cure it.

I descended from Megara and Eleutis: I stayed some time at Athens; and bidding at length an eternal adieu to the country of the Muses, and of great men, I embarked at Cape Sunium for the island of Zea.

Zea is the ancient Ceos, celebrated among the Greeks by the old men who there put themselves to death; by Aristæus, whose bees Virgil has sung; by the birth of Simonides and of Bacchylides. The gauze of Ceos became celebrated among the Roman poets, who compared it to woven wind. I passed from Żea to Tinos, from Tinos to Chios, and from Chios to Smyrna. I resolved to proceed by land to the plain of Troy. I advanced as far as Pergamos; I traversed the ruins of the palace of Eumenes and In the Peloponnesus I saw only a Attalus; and I sought in vain for the country a prey to those debauched tomb of Galen. When I wished to Tartars, who delight in destroying, continue my route, my guide refused not only the monuments of civiliza- to go any further, upon pretext, that tion and the arts, but the harvests the passes of Ida were infested with even, the trees, and whole genera- thieves: I was obliged, therefore, to tions. Would it be believed, that take the road for Constantinople. As there are in the world tyrants so mad, the principal object of my voyage was and so savage, as to oppose every kind to visit the holy places, I enquired of amelioration, even in things of the when I arrived at Pera, if there was utmost importance. A bridge moul- not some vessel in the port for the d.rs away, they never rebuild it; a coast of Syria. I was lucky enough man repairs his house, they oppress to find one ready for sailing, and him. Í have seen Greek captains ex- loaded with Greek pilgums for Jula. pose themselves to the hazard of ship- I settled with the copcam; and we wreck, from torn sails, rather than soon set sail for Jerusalem, under the

standard of the cross flying at the other sharp, executing andante and masts of our vessel.

mezza voce, the octave, the fifths, There were on board this ship near- and the thirds. The effect of this ly two hundred passengers, men, wo- Kirie is surprizing for its solemnity men, children, and old men. There and majesty. It is doubtless a relic of were as many mats ranged in order the ancient singing of the primitive along the two sides of the deck. A church. I suspect the other psalmo slip of paper pasted against the side of dy to be that modern singing introthe vessel, indicated the name of the duced into the Greek ritual, towards proprietor of the mat. Each pilgrim the fourth century, and of which St. had suspended from his bolster, his Augustine had abundant reason to staff, his chaplet, and a small cross. complain. The chamber of the captain was oc- The day after our departure the fecupied by the papas, the conductors ver attacked me again, with great vio of the troop. At the entrance of this lence; and I was obliged to remain chamber they had contrived two sorts upon my mat. We crossed rapidly of antichambers: I had the honour of the sea of Marmora, and the streight lodging in one of these black holes, of the Dardanelles (the ancient Froabout six feet square, with my two pontis and Hellespont). We passed servants; a family occupied, opposite before the peninsula of Cyzicum, and to me, the other apartment. In this the mouth of Egos-Potamos. We sort of republic, every one managed almost touched the promontories of according to his liking; the wo- Sestos and Abydos. Alexander and men took care of the children: the his army, Xerxes and his fleet, the men smoked, or prepared the dinner; Athenians and the Spartans, Hero the papas talked together. On all and Leander, could not cure me of sides were heard the sounds of guitars, the violent head-ache under which I violins, and lyres. They sung, they laboured: but when on the 21st of danced, they laughed, they prayed; September, about six o'clock in the all were joyous. They exclaimed to morning, they told me that they were me, Jerusalem! pointing towards the about to double the castle of the Darsouth; and I replied, Jerusalem! In danelles, the fever could not resist the fact, were it not for fear, we should recollections of Troy. I dragged my have been the happiest people in the self upon deck: my first looks were world; but, at the least wind, the directed towards a high promontory, sailors furled the sails, the pilgrims crowned by nine mills; it was cape cried out, Christos! Kirie eleison! Sigeum. At the foot of the cape, I The storm once passed, we resumed saw two fumuli, the tombs of Achil our boldness. les and Patroclus. The mouth of the In other respects, I did not perceive Simois was to the left of the new casthat disorder of which travellers have tle of Asia; further behind us, tospoken: we were, on the contrary, wards the Hellespont, appeared cape very decent, and very correct. Every Rhetium, and the tomb of Ajax. În evening, after our departure, two pa- the bottom, the chain of mount Ida pas said prayers, at which every one reared itself, the declivities of which, assisted with great earnestness. They from the spot where I was, appeared blessed the vessel, a ceremony which soft and gentle. Tenedos was before was renewed after every storm. The the prow of the vessel: Est in consinging of the Greek church has con- spectu Tenedos. Glory must surely be siderable sweetness, but not much a reality, since it thus powerfully atgravity. I observed one thing very tacks the heart of a mere observer. singular: a child began a verse of a psalm in a shrill tone, and kept it up in a single note, whilst a papa sang the same verse in a different air, and en canon, that is, beginning the verse when the child had already passed the middle. They have also an admirable Kirie eleison, which is a note held by different voices, the one grave, the

On the 22d we entered the Archipelago. We saw Lesbos, Chios, Samos, celebrated for its fertility and its tyrants, and, above all, as the birthplace of Pythagoras. But every thing which the poets have said of this island, is surpassed by the beautiful episode of Telemachus. We coasted the shores of Asia, where appeared

Doride, and that soft Ionia, which fathers came on board; and though gave both pleasures and great men to they were Spaniards, and spoke but a Greece. There the Meander wound very indifferent Italian, yet we shook along; there Ephesus, Miletus, Hali- each other by the hand as if we were carnassus, Gnidus, reared themselves. countrymen. I descended with them I saluted the country of Homer, Apel- into the long boat; we entered the les, Herodotus, Thales, Anaxagoras, port by an aperture dug between-the and Aspasia: but I perceived neither rocks, and dangerous even for a caique. the teniple of Ephesus, nor the tomb The Arabs of the shore advanced into of Mausoleus,nor the Venus of Gnidus. the water as high as their middle, in All around was a desert; and, but for order to take us on their shoulders. A the labours of Pocock, Wood, Spon, curious scene took place: my domesand Choiseul, I should have been un- tic was dressed in a sort of white ridable to recognize the promontory of ing coat, and white being the colour Mycale under its modern appellation, of distinction among the Arabs, they and divested of its glory. After hav- supposed that my servant was the ing put in at Rhodes, we discovered sheick. They seized hold of him, and at last the coasts of Palestine. I did carried him in triumph in spite of his not feel that sort of anxiety which I protestations, whilst I, thanks to my experienced when I beheld the first blue dress, saved myself obscurely on mountains of Greece: but the sight the back of a tattered mendicant. of the cradle of the Israelites, and of the country of the Christians, filled me with fear and reverence. I was about to alight upon the land of prodigies, among the sources of the most astonishing poesy, in the places, speaking even temperately, where the most wonderful event happened, that ever changed the face of the world I mean the birth of the Messiah.

We repaired to the residence of the fathers, a simple house of wood, built upon the port, and enjoying a beautiful view of the sea. My hosts conducted me at first to the chapel, which I found illuminated, and where they thanked God for having sent them a brother; interesting institutions! whence the traveller finds friends and help in the most barbarous countries: institutions which I have already praised, but which will never be sufficiently admired!

The monks introduced me next in

We cast anchor before Jaffa, about half a league from the shore, the town being to the S. E. and the minaret of the mosque to the east south-west. I mention here the points of the com- to a cell, where I found a table, a good pass with exactitude, for a very im- bed, ink and paper, fresh water, and portant reason: the Latin vessels generally anchor further off; and then they are upon a bank of rocks, which cut the cables; while the Greek vessels, in approaching nearer to the land, find themselves upon a much less dangerous bottom, between the wet-dock (darse) of Jaffa and the bank of rocks.

white linen. In order to feel the comfort of all this, let any one debark from a Greek vessel loaded with two hundred pilgrims. At eight o'clock in the evening we passed to the refec tory: they said the benedicite by the de profundis; a remembrance of death which Christianity mingles with every act of life, to render them more grave, Caiques came from all parts to carry as the ancients did at their banquets, the pilgrims on shore. I'immediately to render their pleasures more poig recognised in the masters of these ves- nant. They served me at a small tasels, a different clothing, a different ble, neat, and by itself, with poultry, countenance, a different language, in fish, and excellent fruit, such as pomefact, the Arab race, and the inhabi- granates, grapes, and dates in their tants of the frontier of the desert. prime; and I might drink either CyI sent my Greek servant to inform prus wine or Levant coffee. Whilst the Fathers of the Holy Land of the I was thus loaded with benefits, the arrival of a Latin pilgrim. I soon saw fathers eat contentedly a little fish, a boat approaching, in which I per- without either salt or oil: they were ceived three monks, who, perceiving gay with modesty, and familiar with by my dress that I was a Frank, made politeness. No useless questions, no signs to me with their hands. These frivolous curiosity. All their enquiries

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